The Dual Extrusion Splitter for the Axis 3d printer has been updated.
The new design reduces the likelihood of jamming and provides a straighter path for the filament. We've also removed the need for the short PTFE tubes inside the splitter.
It uses the same hardware already included with the original splitter however you will also need three M3 x 10mm or longer bolts and three M3 nyloc nuts to secure the two halves of the splitter together.
The new splitter is available for download here:
In addition to the updated splitter the instruction for dual extrusion have been updated too. Specifically with the addition of step 9 of stage 4:
By adding the post processing step it removes the pauses that Cura inserts between switches.
Time-lapse of printing, both approx. 6 hours. (unfortunately we ran out of daylight before the cat print finished):
Thank you! Just got my fixed guide to replace the eccentric and new hotend (after my complete melting mess for not being careful with PFTE insertion) so was planning on working in the printer today anyway. Before the hotend mess, I was halfway through the absolute best looking XYZ cube to date by replacing the aluminum+plastic coupler back to an all aluminum one, removing the z-axis top plate, and adjusting the eccentric guides one more time with just a tad more play in them.... looked so close to great until my it stopped printing and when I noticed the entire heaterblock/nozzel/heatbreak was covered in PLA.
So close finally. Will be nice to see if we can get it working consist and get dual extrusion going too.
A top tip to prevent the hotend from leaking is to tighten the nozzle when the hotend is hot - this should give you a better seal.
Thanks. Will try that as well. Should I still use the tape? Or just use that on the heat break?
@Jay M It increase at least the chance to get it tight. But keep in mind that tape do not allow later adjustment. Turning back and forth scratches the tape and let it leak again. The tape is not easy to handle and for my opinion is the tape which Makertech added to the set a bit to thin. I use the yellow roll. Its made for water pipes up to two inch.
Next, the nozzle head should not have more than 1 mm distance to the heater block. If you come not closer, the heat sink at the other side is too deep. So, fix first the nozzle and then insert the heat sink. Make sure they are tight connected at the end.
Wow, a replacement part that needs to be printed. How the hell am I going to get this to work when I cant even print a cube? I cant get anything to stick to the bed anymore. I have cleaned it with alcohol and I have put tape down. The 50°C just isnt working. I got my replacement parts in the mail, but having to tear this apart and put it back together and with everything tight, aligned, it is just not working.
Hey. Did you tried it with slightly higher temp? Like 55°C? But the Makertech PLA sticks already with 50°C very well.
Also, keep in mind that you should not have any airflow for the first few layers. I switch my AC off for that time.
Then, make sure that your nozzle distance to the bed is not too big. I know, its hard to find it out if the nozzle have already some plastic on it. Just increase the value in the firmware in 0.1 mm steps. Its annoying, but if it is done, printing your own designed things makes really happy. (I used my pledge to get an PF-2S and have almost two Kg filament gone...since i received it and spend too many hours in solving problems)
I used to run 60°C until all of the power supplies went belly up. I have my nozzle just off the bed and slowed my initial print speed. I do not use any cooling for the first layer or two. I only have one fan so it is either off or on. I dont have the shroud printed as I cant get a good print.
I spent a lot of time working to get the axis level, but there is only so much I can do with this design. There are too many issues to overcome and then to work to get a print to start, that makes it all seem like I need to start a good fire.