Return to Forum
Return To Mainsite
To see this working, head to your live site.
  1. Makertech 3D Forum
  2. AXIS 3D Printer
  3. 3D Printing
  4. Lead Screw Wobble
Search
FirstSonOfTyr
Aug 6, 2020

Lead Screw Wobble

I've been having issues with a sin wave in my prints. I think it's being caused by the lead screw wobbeling and thus pushing an pulling on the gantry. I've tried tightening up the guides but if tighten it any farther it's too much and the gantry wont raise of lower.


Anyone else having this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it?

5 answers4 replies
1
Makertech
Best Answer
  ·  Aug 7, 2020

A number of things need to come together to eliminate lead screw wobble.


Start first by removing the lead screw and making sure that the guides are loose enough to allow sliding but tight enough so that there isn't any wobble on the gantry when you move it by hand. The guides on the gantry are the trickiest to set up correctly, you want the gantry to be able to almost fall on it's own when the lead screw is not there.


Next is the positioning of the lead screw, the coupling and the motor shaft:

https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+06:+Gantry/56?lang=en#s624

Make sure that inside the coupling the lead screw and motor shaft are touching.


Finally is the lead screw bracket and cap. The lead screw cap will need proper lubrication in order to be effective, the best in our opinion is dry bike chain lubricant (teflon kind), but cooking oil (olive/vegetable) works well too.


Then the lead screw bracket itself needs to be placed on top of the lubed cap, make sure that when you're fixing it that you've not pressed it down so much that it's pushed the lead screw to one side.


All three of these areas, the guides, the coupling and bracket need to be setup correctly for the best results.


Checking: Before printing lower the z-axis manually and then use pronter face to raise it up. Whilst looking at the gantry from the front of the printer, check to see if there's any side to side wobbling at the end nearest the LCD display.


Finally, I think it's worth mentioning that metal couplings are also available if anyone is still struggling with z-wobble and is wondering if any component itself could be upgraded. If you are considering this upgrade then we recommend the type that clamps onto the shaft, the correct size is 5x8.


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000281764467.html?


2
FirstSonOfTyr
Aug 7, 2020

I actually created a bracket for the top as well.


It's not the best due to not having very accurate measuring device (only a ruler). Now I have some calipers and will be recreating it with better measurements. The lead screw cap actually sit inside well and I've lubed it with CLP (gun lubricant). It hasn't taken the wobble out though.


I'm going to get the upgrade coupling recommended above. By jamming my finger between the various parts and the frame I can feel that the motor drive shaft doesn't wobble, the coupling doesn't wobble but the screw does. Thus I've determined that the screw is not centered on the drive shaft.

Michael G
Aug 12, 2020

Great idea! I wish I would have seen this before I designed mine: https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/main/comment/5f33f44fd803e90017af3f7f


This forum doesn't allow STL file uploads. Create an account over at thingiverse and upload it there.

0
dan aylett
Aug 18, 2020

hey i love the design did you upload the files anywhere?

0
Bob Maes
Dec 2, 2020

Hey, I'm also curious if you could share the STL files. Thanks!

0
2
christian h.
Aug 8, 2020

nice solution. would you please provide the stl file?

FirstSonOfTyr
Aug 9, 2020

Trying but the file fails to upload.


0
1
Michael G
Aug 7, 2020

So I'm looking at Stage 06 - Step 14 picture #2. The bracket that goes on the top of the topper thing looks like it could be improved. This is very similar to my current printer. When I get my AXIS in hand (just a week now!) I'll see if it would be feasible to model out a part to print now that you've identified this as a problem area.


My idea would be to make a different bracket where a bearing could be pressed into it. An inner sleeve would be pressed into the bearing and onto the top of the lead screw. An advantage of this would be that the bracket could be changed to have the position of the bearing lower on the lead screw to possibly eliminate some of the bending moment. However, the trade-off would be that you give up some of your vertical print space.


Remember, you get a 3D printer to print upgrades for your 3D printer! ;)

1
kevin bogart
Aug 19, 2020

try this

https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/main/comment/5f3a9ecf0f150c0017c62d62

Copyright © Makertech 3D Ltd. 2020 - All Rights Reserved. - U.K. Company No. 10715504 - U.K. VAT No. GB 273781181

Return to main site here.