I've been having issues with a sin wave in my prints. I think it's being caused by the lead screw wobbeling and thus pushing an pulling on the gantry. I've tried tightening up the guides but if tighten it any farther it's too much and the gantry wont raise of lower.
Anyone else having this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it?
A number of things need to come together to eliminate lead screw wobble.
Start first by removing the lead screw and making sure that the guides are loose enough to allow sliding but tight enough so that there isn't any wobble on the gantry when you move it by hand. The guides on the gantry are the trickiest to set up correctly, you want the gantry to be able to almost fall on it's own when the lead screw is not there.
Next is the positioning of the lead screw, the coupling and the motor shaft:
https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+06:+Gantry/56?lang=en#s624
Make sure that inside the coupling the lead screw and motor shaft are touching.
Finally is the lead screw bracket and cap. The lead screw cap will need proper lubrication in order to be effective, the best in our opinion is dry bike chain lubricant (teflon kind), but cooking oil (olive/vegetable) works well too.
Then the lead screw bracket itself needs to be placed on top of the lubed cap, make sure that when you're fixing it that you've not pressed it down so much that it's pushed the lead screw to one side.
All three of these areas, the guides, the coupling and bracket need to be setup correctly for the best results.
Checking: Before printing lower the z-axis manually and then use pronter face to raise it up. Whilst looking at the gantry from the front of the printer, check to see if there's any side to side wobbling at the end nearest the LCD display.
Finally, I think it's worth mentioning that metal couplings are also available if anyone is still struggling with z-wobble and is wondering if any component itself could be upgraded. If you are considering this upgrade then we recommend the type that clamps onto the shaft, the correct size is 5x8.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000281764467.html?
I actually created a bracket for the top as well.
It's not the best due to not having very accurate measuring device (only a ruler). Now I have some calipers and will be recreating it with better measurements. The lead screw cap actually sit inside well and I've lubed it with CLP (gun lubricant). It hasn't taken the wobble out though.
I'm going to get the upgrade coupling recommended above. By jamming my finger between the various parts and the frame I can feel that the motor drive shaft doesn't wobble, the coupling doesn't wobble but the screw does. Thus I've determined that the screw is not centered on the drive shaft.
Great idea! I wish I would have seen this before I designed mine: https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/main/comment/5f33f44fd803e90017af3f7f
This forum doesn't allow STL file uploads. Create an account over at thingiverse and upload it there.
hey i love the design did you upload the files anywhere?
nice solution. would you please provide the stl file?
Trying but the file fails to upload.
So I'm looking at Stage 06 - Step 14 picture #2. The bracket that goes on the top of the topper thing looks like it could be improved. This is very similar to my current printer. When I get my AXIS in hand (just a week now!) I'll see if it would be feasible to model out a part to print now that you've identified this as a problem area.
My idea would be to make a different bracket where a bearing could be pressed into it. An inner sleeve would be pressed into the bearing and onto the top of the lead screw. An advantage of this would be that the bracket could be changed to have the position of the bearing lower on the lead screw to possibly eliminate some of the bending moment. However, the trade-off would be that you give up some of your vertical print space.
Remember, you get a 3D printer to print upgrades for your 3D printer! ;)
try this
https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/main/comment/5f3a9ecf0f150c0017c62d62