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Paul C
Aug 24, 2020

Model not "Sticking" to the plate

Hi All, its been a relativity painless build so far but i do have some guide tweaking to do ill reed up on that later.

what is really bugging me at the moment is no mater what i do i can not get the Model to Stick to the plate. I`m using the PLA+ supplied in the kit and i have the Flex Plate upgrade. the base of the Model prints OK , then when the actual Model is being printed it the base comes loose from the flex plate then its all over the place with the head moving the Model.


So far i have tried PritStick (one person mention) but it still does not stick. what am i doing wrong :(


This is my fist 3D printer so please bear with me.

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Michael G
Aug 24, 2020

Do you have the heated bed? Start with 50-60c on the bed. If you don't have a heated bed and you've tried PritStick then I'm kinda out of my element.

kevin bogart
Aug 25, 2020

Actually I was told you cant go to 60°C Even though the specs say it can go to 110°C


Here is the thread with that info


https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/axis-3d-printer/thermal-runaway

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Makertech
Aug 25, 2020

It's very likely that the first layer isn't low enough. On the first layer the nozzle should be squishing the filament down onto the platform. I recommend lowering the offset by 0.1mm increments and see if that improves things.

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Paul C
Aug 25, 2020

Hi, thx for the replies :)


I have found out the reason , the base layer is sticking to the plate (with PritStick)

The actual issue is the Z axis movement , it is not moving up in small movements , but will with large movements so the print head is crashing into the model. Ill look at the forum for Ideas as its the old alignment issue .... erghh

Makertech
Aug 26, 2020

This is likely due to the lead screw set-up.


Inside the coupling there should not be gap between the bottom of the lead screw and the top of the motor shaft.


At the top of the lead screw the bracket should be pressing down on the lead screw to prevent any vertical movement of the lead screw itself.


This will remove any jerky motion in the z-axis.


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Daniel Hastings
Sep 22, 2020

I have been going through all of the same problems. I tried Pritt Stick and blue painters tape, but neither worked very well. I found some double sided tape on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMSLP7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that seems to work well. I still had a problem with the nozzle colliding with the printed part, especially as it got taller. I have improved that by tightening up the Z and Y axis guides. It is tricky to get them to grip tight enough to eliminate wiggle without binding. Sewing machine oil helps. So does increasing the voltage to the Z axis motor. It takes care and patience to work through it. My prints still have room for improvement, but they are working a lot better.

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Gareth Owen
Aug 25, 2020

Print my Beta Z

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andrew leroy
Aug 26, 2020

Also try printing slower. Without my heated-bed I had to slow it down to 25mm/s. Once you start figuring out all the right adjustments, you'll be able to speed it up a bit.

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Russell Forrest
Sep 4, 2020

I put some Scotch Blue painters tape down and it stuck really well. I use it for little things but my larger items I watch the first few layers and use a little tape on the skirt if it lifts

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Alan monk
Sep 21, 2020

I had issues initially with the first few layers not adhering to the bed. Tried Pritt stick but that just got scoured by and then clogged the nozzle.


A better solution I found was to mist a light coat of spraymount onto the bed (with the hot end cold and/or remove the flexplate and spray it away from any heat source... spraymount is flammable!)


No problems now, everything I've printed (c50 assorted prints) since has been fine.

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Russell Forrest
Sep 21, 2020

I have been printing for another 20 hours with the blue tape so far and had the tape lift once but the prints need a scraper to lift them. I get 3-4 prints out of a layer of tape before it's trashed by the scraper.

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