In good news only one of my flexplates can't handle the high temps and bow up the corners - see former prior pictures. This one was fine at high temps! :-) Unfortunately, now it has the bottom of an XYZ cube permanently attached. :-)
Those stickers pull off, but leave behind all the adhesive. Will Goo-B-Gone them and clean them up, then see about using BuildTek sheets which state they work with PETG.
Printing with PETG. All my prints were warping. I took the sticker of the metal plate.
I use an adhesive spray and got rid of the original powersupply. It was only 4A.
At 80 celsius the printer shuts down after about half an hour.
Put a 8.5A powersupply on the heated bed. Now I am printing at 90 celsius on the bed. And so far so good.
I'm researching the inductive probes right now (https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-LJ18A3-8-Z-Normally-inductive-Proximity/dp/B073XC5T7B/) to see which one I need with the 8mm sensing depth. I recently picked up a 310x310 sheet of borosilica glass. I need to trim it so it fits between the screws holding the hot plate.
In good news only one of my flexplates can't handle the high temps and bow up the corners - see former prior pictures. This one was fine at high temps! :-) Unfortunately, now it has the bottom of an XYZ cube permanently attached. :-)
Those stickers pull off, but leave behind all the adhesive. Will Goo-B-Gone them and clean them up, then see about using BuildTek sheets which state they work with PETG.
Haven't tried it yet. Just now got the printer to reliably hold 215 through a PLA print.
Thanks for the heads up on the build surface. That sucks.