We're working through A LOT currently and request that people be patient whilst waiting for the rest of the Dual Switching Extruder instructions and files.
We're aiming to have them up by the end of the week at the latest, please keep an eye on the build manual page and forum for updates.
What exactly needs to be changed as far as firmware and files in order to get the dual extruder working? It's simple enough to finish the build mechanically with the missing instructions (all that appears to be left out is the servo arm), but the printer does not expose options for the other hotend or that servo. The makertech version of cura does not have the dual switching extruder as an option for this printer either. I know you're working through a lot, but it's a little frustrating to have it built (and not be able to have the regular single extruder built simultaneously as they share parts) and not be able to print anything for lack of software...
Completely understand and I assure you we're working around the clock to get the rest of the instructions up as soon as possible! Please bear with us before rushing into it your self.
Thank you for the reassurance. I don't wish to rush you any further, I was just looking for some information as to what needed changed. If it's more than just a few lines in a source file or two, I can understand advising people to hold off and not try it themselves. I'm a programmer by profession though, so I was hoping for a little more information.
I am slowly building my 2s and being zen about it.
Well I've grown impatient. Initially I built the single hot end and extruder setup. Having bought the fully upgraded 2S,. I knew something was not right. Searching around, I found the Dual Switch Extruder build. So, I tore apart the single hot end setup. And set out to build the dual switching setup. Completed it. Finding there was missing instructions on the servo arm. I assessed my leftover and spare parts. I used a leftover bearing sandwiched between (2) M3 washers attaching them to the servo arm with a M3x18 screw. The screw was a bit long. But, didn’t seem as though it would interfere with any operations. I finished the build and after a few wiring hiccups, I have what I believed was a ready to run 3D printer. Only to find that the software/firmware was failing me. As I said i’ve grown impatient. So now i’m taking apart the dual switching setup to re-build the single hot end setup. And to say the least i’m a bit frustrate. Some flagging indicating the printer would be a paperweight until the software/firmware was updated if a person built the dual switching setup, would have been nice. But with a deadline come and passed without any further information. I feel reverting to the single hotend setup is my only option.
An update would be nice... Even if not to release the software, but to tell us a revised ETA or just give a status update. Again, I realize there's much work to be done, and no one is a miracle worker that makes something appear from nothing, but with a printer that is as of now dysfunctional unless I disassemble and reassemble to what is supposed to be a downgrade it would be a good gesture to give a little bit of information as to what is being done.
They seem to have gone silent I’ve been asking about this and if they sent the part they where going to send last week and I get no response. I was one of the first people to start questioning them about the firmware and all they say is they are working on it. Didn’t they supposedly make prints with the prototype dual extruder. How much harder would it have been to tweak the code for the final version. Seems that the extruder in the Kickstarter videos was all faked footage.
Rest assured we're still here and just working through a lot of things, we're very close (next few days) to having all of the instructions/software up for the Dual Switching Extruder. It's just taking us a little longer to prepare. The silence is temporary, our focus at the moment is 100% on the DSE. We're updating the Dozuki page regularly. There should be a total of 10 stages, we're expecting to get to 9 today and the 10th tomorrow/day after. Once all of the instructions are up software files will be released. After that we'll be focussing entirely on forum/email/missing part support.
Files appeared in section DSE Stage 06 - Firmware and Motion Checks. Now to load them into printer!
That great now if they would only send the missing parts I was told would ship out three week ago. Still have a useless printer. At least I can’t install the firmware. At the rate they been resolving issues I’ll have a working printer by summer. Still can’t figure out why there was no firmware at launch, which was also late. Should’ve had an extra two months to square away the firmware. when they supposed had a working prototype, granted the design change from the prototype to the actual product. We should have had something even if it need adjustments.
The servo is not working. Everything else is working correctly, but the servo does not move. It doesn't move when turning the printer on, or when pressing any of the "more" buttons, 1, 2, or 3. Would this be the servo, or the control board?
Okay, it's the servo. I tested with a smaller one that I had laying around. My other servo works, so I guess the one in my kit is bad... Are you still sending replacement parts out?
@Ernie Bausch my servo worked 5-8 times, now dead.
@dar.flem @Makertech After a little research, it would appear that the servos included in this kit, the MG996R, are very very poorly rated. 90 percent of the reviews for these servos say that most of them arrive dead, and the ones that work only work for an average of 20 minutes or so before they either start skipping teeth, seize up or have the motor die... People reviewing them advise to "avoid them like the plague." This is very disappointing. Should any of the higher end 180 degree servos work as a drop in replacement? Are the external casings for these the same dimensions? Something like a DS3225MG. Any input would be appreciated
Firmware installed successfully and my servo seems to be working at the moment, however the head crashes into the octoprint camera during AutoLevel...
I have fixed the problem by attaching the camera right behind (at the end of) the X axis endstop "arm". For me it is the only possible place.
A number of us are having issues with temperature probes when we've got the 2nd head thermistor in play. In Assembly and DSE forum boards.
Edit: May be dodgy thermistors it seems.
i get no temp readings at all.any idea what is wrong?
@Daryl Smith as in 0 or -15? If the latter the connections near the head of the thermistors are likely busted, where the black shrink wrap is. If it's showing 0... turn on your central heating? :grin:
same issue dead servo. would like needed specs for sourcing a quality replacement
i did the upgrade offirmware now nothing works.what do i do next.
If you plug your electronics board to your computer (disconnect the touch screen first) and press the red reset button on the board. After resetting the board try uploading the firmware again.
Double check your thermistor connector, make sure nothing is loose.
If you're still not getting anything connect via pronterface, you should get a stream of text in the terminal, please post that initial stream of text in a new post in the Assembly category.
DSE Backplate dimensions and drawings for all of the other metal parts can be found in the downloads section of the site in the open-source documents folder.
We're aware of a few people are having issues with their servos and are looking into offering/recommending an upgraded version.
Hi Adeel,
I think you can adding Degausser Magnet Solenoid on your DSE.
This Magnet act as Servo Brake that hold the Hotend from switching, so your servo can be deactivated for lenghten servo life time.
You can get it here :
Default Magnet is active when no Powering (Magnetizing).
When it powered, magnet is not active (Demagnetizing).
You need add 1 output pin from MKS that connected to 1 Relay for operate 2 Magnet solenoid, left one and right one (output Relay is COM, NO and NC contact. Use NO contact for powering Left Magnet Solenoid, NC contact for powering Right Magnet Solenoid. When output pin is HIGH, Left Magnet is ON, Right Magnet is OFF. When output pin is LOW, Left Magnet is OFF, Right Magnet is ON). Or you can add 2 output pins and 2 Relays so Magnet can be operated independently.
This is Switching sequence you can make in program.
Switching Hotend 1 to Hotend 2 :
1. Power On left magnet (demagnetize left magnet) so Hotend 1 can move freely.
2. Power Off Right magnet (magnetize right magnet).
3. Activate the servo to switching Hotend 1 to Hotend 2.
4. When Hotend 2 has touched the Right magnet, deactivate servo.
Servo only powered when switching process, other than that servo is powered off.
Magnet Solenoid only powered (Demagnetized) when switching process, other than that magnet is powered off (Magnetized).
By this method, you can save power consumption and servo life time can be lengthen.
This method is used in all typical industrial servo motor that using solenoid brake to hold motor position when there is no power / in idle position.
I attached the picture so you can understand my concept.
Maybe you can add more idea or suggest about this,
@Arief This is a very interesting interesting idea, we initially prototyped a design with magnets but found that they weren't strong enough and also cancelled each other out, but these electromagnets are a great idea and may work. We're looking at making a lot of changes to not only the switching mechanism but also a custom made hotend for a future DSE 2.0, but that is quite a way away from now.
@Arief , I like!
As a side comment, I normally print via usb and the solenoid unlike the fans and steppers, gets its power from the usb. I’m used to turning off the mains after a print, leaving the usb connected always. Well, the second servo was burning hot the next morning and another one is on order 😢.
dont leave the usb connected! Also, if I’m just doing single extruder printing, I disconnect the ribbon cable, a small clip holds the hot end in place.
ok i bought a Futaba S3155 servo. its far less torque than the Tower Pro that was supplied. it does seem to have enough torque to actuate the extruder. though the lower torque may prove a longevity issue.
the problem i'm having now is the servo acuates to positions 2 and 3 but not position 1. the carriage lifts and lowers for the z offset. yet no servo actuation to switch hot-ends.
note on the servo its not a direct replacement. its a mini so i've made a adapter plate out of some kydex i had.
@Chris D
To give you some insight, position 1 is 0 degrees, position 2 is 100 degrees and position 3 is 45 degrees.
You can manually move the servo in pronterface:
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M280.html
<index> is 3, <pos> is the desired angle.
Something worth trying would be to set the hotend 0 degree position to 1 degree in the firmware under the SWITCHING_NOZZLE feature in configuration.h.
@Makertech I am having the same issue. Using pronterface, it seems that whenever I power on the Proforge, it thinks that that the Servo is at 0 degrees, no matter what angle it was at when I turned it off. Curiously, it seems that if I send the command "M280 P3 S45" and then check the angle with "M280 P3" it thinks the angle is still at 0 degrees, even though the first command rotated the servo to 45 degrees.
Do you know what's wrong here?
Thanks,
@Ryan Andrews It is normal for the servo to move to 0 degrees on power up as this would select Hotend 1 (assuming the arm is installed properly). Does the servo rotate when you give it commands?
Also, connecting via usb can sometimes cause the servo to reset/conflict with the power from the psu.
Is the servo operating correctly when powered only form the mains and controlled from the touch screen?
It may also be worth double check the wiring too from the build manuals.
my servo worked a few times the died.where can i buy a new one as i'm still waiting for previous replacement parts ordered about a month now.if parts are sent is there not a tracking number with them?>
@Daryl Smith The MG996R Servo is quite a common servo and you should be able to find it on ebay/amazon. Replacement parts don't have tracking numbers but were sent out with Royal Mail early last week, It's likely the post was a little slow because of the Easter weekend.
@Makertech but why should i. i've already paid out of pocket for m5 tnuts the tube for the feader was missing.
now i have to buy a servo. afetr now waiting 5 weeks for the last order of replacement parts.refund?
@Daryl Smith The first batch of replacement parts I admit were delayed in being sent out. Replacement parts are, as of now, sent out on Mondays and have a delivery time of 2-7 working days: replacement part form.
Has anyone made successful prints with there dual extruder
For Dual printing, nothing but poor prints and failures. My second solenoid just burnt out in middle of 3hr dual print, into garbage it goes. At this point, if Makerteck provides a workable bed replacement, I'll probably modify the the extruder to Y type, using the single extruder mount.
I'm building the dual extruder and all the steps seems to be correct until I tried to test the servo. So it seems you all got problems with the servo being dead(probably including me) or not correctly calibrated in configuration.h. There is a best answer here from @Molotov suggesting changing the limit values and there is also a very good explanation by @denishungnguyen (i think?) in Guide/DSE+Stage+07 step 4 and I will probably go for that.
I will by trying to fix it in the coming days and I wanted to ask ppl how is it going with the DSE? Do you like it? doesn't work? Last time someone made a comment about it is from months ago.
Also if there is an obvious fix please share it or make the changes in the firmware, till this day it hasn't been updated in the builds neither in the instructions.
After some tinkering in the firmware I got it working with the best answer in this thread, here is it . Dual extruder is working wonderful and the stock servo was working well.
When I first installed the arm, everything worked for maybe about 30 minutes. Now, when I power it up, the arm doesn't move at all on power up. If I choose to move the arm to hotend 2, it works just fine, but if I try to move back to 1, it doesn't move.
And now it is dead.
So I got a servo from RC car fortunately, it works fine but opposite way. When I choose 1, it turned left.
How do I can change the direction?