Got the Mean Well LRS-350-24. Printed a PETG cover on the other 3D printer for the terminals and holder for the fuse switch. Bypassed the Heated Bed MOSFET. Wired everything back up.
Recompiled Marlin with a bedtemp of 120 (realizing maybe it should be 110 maybe? When they say the bed can go to 110, is that with a 10-degree buffer? Or really should it be 100 max?)... anyway, i can get to 80-degrees for the bed now for PETG. Takes a long time. First attempt at PETG and I realize I messed up my Z-adjustment. Will play with it tomorrow and readjust.
And by the time it gets there, zoom in and take a look at the corners of that flex plate. Heh. Yeah, don’t think they will do 80C bed temps. The magnets aren’t enough to fight the thermal changes. Maybe you need glass for that hot.
You can just see my metal Z coupling.
I don’t trust this printer with just Octopi watching and mic/speak to hear alarms... I did get a bed temp runaway at about 103C when trying to get to 110. No idea what that was about, but beep is loud and doesn’t stop. :)
Oh well. 2am. Waaaaay last bedtime.
Ohh wow! I like your design for the mount/enclosure much better than mine! Would you mind sharing the STL?
I looked through many of them and found this one for an Ender 3 that I liked the best. On the Prusa i3 MK3S in PETG it printed without any supports... that printer is really amazing. Wife has it tied up 24/7 was thankful she let me borrow it for a few hours... was also our first PETG print. Worked perfectly.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4167842/files
@Jay M Once you go to PETG it's hard to go back! I'm actually trying to burn through the last of my PLA so that I can reorder in PETG. I actually spent like $200 on filament the other day to try. Kinda why I was hesitant to do the Mean Well upgrade. Got some T-Glase which should be able to be polished to clear, woodfill, and ABS. Next on the list is engineering grade stuff. Was about to pull the trigger on carbon fiber filled Nylon, but waiting for a drying box on kickstarter before I do that. Also working on a better storage solution for my filament. The little RubberMade bins just don't hold that much.
Oh, also, what did you use for your switch? I ordered that BIQU one and it looks similar.
I think it might be hard to get there on this bed. Looking for a glass plate now... but still worried about the thermal run away.
Yes, that was the switch you linked to. I wish I had gotten 16-gauge wire though with the connectors. Going to rewire.
if I am going to do that... is there any advantage to using MOSFET again and having it hooked up to a separate rail on the PS?
I ordered a 310x310 glass plate. I'm having warping issues like you are. Not quite as bad on the corners, but they're at lease a layer height off in various spots around the bed. I've turned mine upside down and am using hairspray.
I got 14 AWG. What are you using? I think I have some 16 AWG that I use for RC purposes so if you think 14 is kinda big that is kinda where I was when I was ordering, "should I go smaller? Nah, bigger is better!"
I was thinking about the same thing when reading over the notes on the psu. I may just use lighter guage from the the mainboard out to the XT60 and then go from there to one rail on the psu. Then just go fatty 14 from the mosfet to another XT60 and then on to another rail.
I'm running a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo in this and my other printer. The way I have it set up in the other printer has the same Mean Well and it runs a single rail to the "in" on the SKR and then just goes out from the heated bed port to the bed. That's basically the idea I've outlined in the posts where I describe the upgrade.
I have not had that curling corners at 60C at all. Only when getting up to 80C did that happen.
I only had 12g or 20g... technically I am sure have 14 or 16... but my ”lab” but it is a mess, so couldn’t find it. Really need to organize. i ordered 14 and 16, 2-conductor, silicon coating. When that is here, will rewire.
Right now, single rail out to a 3-4” XT60 tail. Then mate XT60 with about 18” out of printer back And straight to the MKS board Main Power. Then I have power on the Bed Heating pins straight to the headed bed. Had to splice some extra wire to those 12g again... had to trim some strands to get the wire in the holes.
Anyway, thinking they MKS is struggling with the 80C+ ... so will try the MOSFET trigger with power off a different rail. :)
Next up is get the Octopi and camera going I think... and another round of tuning the guides with paper, shadows and maybe pencils marks...