Ug. More things to note.
first: if you have the heated bed, I hope you read this before assembling... holes at the edge of the base plate goes on left side of printer. Single hole, goes towards the front left corner, that is where you should mount you camera... not back right like I had to do.
Before putting the camera module into your 3D printed case, check to make sure it is taped down. Mine they forgot to peel off the “3M” backing so was only held in place by the tiny plug. after I got everything mounted I tilted printer up to plug things in and the camera fell out. Had to take it all apart plug the little camera part back on and stick it onto the circuit board.
i used a Raspberry Pi 3B+ ... their right angle power adapter us backwards from third picture. Also, hooked to the main 24v feed (so many extra wires jammed in that terminal now) and get an under voltage error in OctoPi web interface.
Camera stream doesn’t work either - maybe because of undervoltage. Will try and reseat cable ends tomorrow.
Under voltage also causes Octopi/Octoprint to be unable to update.
painful.
Well, the camera stream didn't work due to the cable not staying in the socket from the camera to the camera module/board itself. Perhaps when I stuck the camera to the board I put it an incorrect angle, but I snapped it back in, re-assembled the assembly and tried again and it was still not detected. Left it out of the assembly and it worked so that was a positive... so I super glued it in. It now works just fine. Would be nice if it was on the other side instead of looking under the gantry... i think... maybe it'll be nicer on this side since the cooling duct won't block things as much... I don't know. Just glad that is working.
I got my angle adapters in, so was able to use an external Power Supply instead of tapping into the main line voltage and using the USB buck converter thing. I'm not getting the under voltage now... but maybe that was because the camera was shorting a little when not fully plugged in or something? I dunno. Would be nice to not have another wire coming out... but it is also working well now, not sure I want to disrupt things.
So, I'm not "satisfied" that I have the Octopi upgrade working. It was even more work. Hopefully, folks find these hints useful. I left comments in the guide as well.
I had a bunch of issues with the firmware/Raspbian that I had to work through. Luckily I had similar issues with my other setup and knew the octopi setup pretty well.
It looks like we got a 1.3 revision of the Raspberry Pi camera. There should be a red LED on it. When it is connected it will illuminate.
The problem that I'm having is that I cannot get the Makertech version of Cura work with the Octoprint Plugin. With standard Cura on 4.6 and 4.7 I'm able to supply an API key to the plugin and send gcode directly from the slicer.
The configuration is done when setting up the machine. I don't get any options for configuring Octoprint. :(
Yeah, I was look for that as well and couldn't find it. I use PrusaSlicer for the i3.3S and have it all working there, but didn't see a place in Cura. Hopefully whatever Makertech 3D has that is special can get a pull request to allow in the main trunk of Cura and can just use that.
@Jay M I just deleted the entire profile for Cura 4.6 and let it reload and added the plugin back. Clearly it is something with their printer profile. It works for a Custom FFF printer but not theirs. UGH
@Jay M Would you mind posting your Slic3r profile?
Not really worth starting another thread so unless @Jay M doesn't want me to hijack the thread I'll post this here:
Something about mounting it internally kinda drives me insane. I want to be able to get at things. I already have a micro sd card extender plugged into my mainboard so I can flash a new version of the firmware without having to flip the machine over. I have a bad habit of breaking Raspbian installs so this would make it easier for me to yank the card and start over.
I show it mounted in the wrong direction here. I'd ideally have it mounted the other way so that the power cord faced away from the bed and that all the other stuff was projected down.
So I didn't realize the Pi is a B+. I send a print and I can watch it stutter along. The Pi can't keep up with the printer. Geeze.
I also broke my camera trying to insert it into the printed case.
What should have been the easiest part of setting up this printer is just like everything else, a travesty.
Hmmm. Haven’t had any problems using a 3B+ that I had laying around. Almost used a 4, but figured if they were recommending a 3B+ still, that I‘d just use that too. I am using a rather fast Samsung 32GB sdcard.
BTW, cool mount. I haven’t had any issues with inside the underneath. Will see what happens when I swap fans... I might put a second fan (exhaust) in to help keep up the airflow with I assume will move less air than the jet turbine they used... will see if the label has any info to compare the the Nactua.
@Jay M I think I have the 3B+ in my other printer. It has WiFi built in, correct? It works so nice. I'm using a TP-Link 3 plug power strip and I have a plug-in that controls it. It turns a LED light on when it starts the print and turns the printer off after the print is completed.
The two printers are not even a 0.5m apart and it seems like I can't connect to the AXIS setup. I've tried two different WiFi adapters. When I SSH into it I can see it has acceptable signal strength and quality. Even sending commands takes forever. The interface takes ages to load. I'm assigning the blame to the Pi.
I was sitting there watching it and being kind of upset. I realized I have a 4 that I was using for a media server that my family never really caught on to using. Then I thoguht, "no, you've invested too much into this thing that you're not going to keep dumping money into it." IDK now. I'm starting to loose steam.
@Michael G The 3B+ does have WiFi built in, I didn't use the 802.11n adapter they sent, if they sent a 3B+ don't know why it isn't using onboard WiFi. I'm connect via both WiFi and wired because I wasn't confident inside the metal cage WiFi would be reliable, but it does connect.
Here's what I pulled from the CLI for what MakerTech sent:
pi@octopi-axis:~ $ cat /proc/cpuinfo
processor : 0
model name : ARMv6-compatible processor rev 7 (v6l)
BogoMIPS : 697.95
Features : half thumb fastmult vfp edsp java tls
CPU implementer : 0x41
CPU architecture: 7
CPU variant : 0x0
CPU part : 0xb76
CPU revision : 7
Hardware : BCM2835
Revision : 0013
Serial : 00000000bb28c056
Model : Raspberry Pi Model B Plus Rev 1.2
pi@octopi-axis:~ $ cat /sys/firmware/devicetree/base/model
Raspberry Pi Model B Plus Rev 1.2
Here's what comes from my actual 3B+:
pi@rasppi3:~$ cat /sys/firmware/devicetree/base/model
Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Rev 1.2
Yep, here is what I get for the one I had laying around and used. It works just fine from the couple of prints I've done.
pi@octopi-axis:~ $ cat /sys/firmware/devicetree/base/model
Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3
On the Prusa's Octopi we have:
pi@octopi:~ $ cat /sys/firmware/devicetree/base/model
Raspberry Pi 4 Model B Rev 1.1