Hello,
I am having an issue with the heated bed adhering to the build plate. The Build Plate seems to be warped a little bit causing the tape to fail. I have ordered some 3M F9473PC to try and add more tape in order to keep this from occurring? Any other suggestions to resolve this issue?
The black platform should be mostly flat, if it's very badly bent you will need a replacement. Replacement/missing parts form.
Thank you for the response I have sent the form in to get a replacement
My build plate seemed flat and the tape appeared to adhere well during assembly (cleaned surfaces with IPA prior to applying tape), however the build plate warps as soon as heat is applied. Pic below shows deflection at 50C. The warp goes away after the bed cools.
Do you suggest stronger tape? Would proper adhesion to the heated bed add enough support to eliminate the deflection as the build plate expands?
I have the same issue of the build plate being bent a few mm so it doesn't stick to the heatbed any more. I will first assemble the printer completely to be sure there are no more defects and then use the form to ask for a replacement.
@Adeel:
- Will the new build plate come with tape to stick it to the heatbed?
- How do you recommend removing the (no more sticking) tape from the heatbed? (hair dryer?)
Hello,
I have the same issue. The heating surface doesn't stick to the plate.
In fact, after some days, I notice that my plate is not flat anymore.
Height of the bed (Bottom left corner)
Bottom right corner
Center
Same Problem. What kind of glue may I take?
with there expansion of metal when it is heated. you may want to try to loosen the standoffs. preheat the bed. then cinch down the standoffs. make sure the height adjustment screw isn't tightened all the way down. the more rigidly these standoffs are connected to the bed the more likely the expansion will cause a bowing of the steel rather than spread out. so, once tightened back them each off about a half turn. and start your bed leveling adjustments from there.only adjust the height upward, as down would tighten the contact point.
personally i'm not currently having the bowing issue. at least not to to the degree the above people are. but coming across this subject i have thought about adding more support to the bed. my plan is to drill holes every 100mm or so along the perimeter. adding a standoff and adjustment screw/spring at each of this points. it seems the heating board would accommodate the extra holes. would need to move the extruded crossmember out to give the extra standoff along the 200mm sides somewhere to attach. the extra supports/adjustments along the perimeter would minimized the affects of warping. i could use the edge of a ruler to check the center of the bed for flatness. though the thinking here is if the perimeter is flat the center should be as well.
Also have a bed black plate with center bow Upwards. First supplied tape failed in minutes, I put on new tape, covering most of the plate bottom and stuck it to the heat plate. Also put this under some bricks to make sure good adherence and had the posts loose when attached to printer. After heating bed to 65c, tape failed... seems to be a common problem.
With this issue I believe I have atleast for now remedied the issue. I used 3M F9473PC tape. I have had multiple successful prints with it and the board no longer bows. I had to buy it on eBay because i Could not find any affordable timely places to buy besides EBay.
I also seem to have resolved this issue for the moment. I purchased some 3M VHB tape from Amazon and covered the heat plate. Then I carefully clamped the the build plate to the heat plate and turned the heat plate on while still clamped to allow the bed and tape to heat up before reassembling.
If this continues to be an issue I plan to make a new build plate using a thicker aluminum plate and milling out pockets for the magnets (and maybe a little pocket for locating the flex plate as well I'm at it...)
BTW, if if anyone is looking to remove the supplied tape from the heat plate, the tape is very easy to remove if the heat plate is warm.
Thanks! Yes, a better build plate would be great. One that allows for a perfectly positioned flex plate for example, so that there is only one position for it. Otherwise the printing dimensions don't necessarily fit the position of the flex plate. Oh and it could be even bigger in X direction so one doesn't loose printbed dimensions when using the dual hotend! But than the heated bed wouldn't fit anymore... 😉
i like the aluminum idea. if mine starts to bow i'll look into it. tho i have no mill. the heat transference and ridgidity of aluminum seems the best solution. i'm sure i can make something work.
Some people are reporting issues with their print platform being slightly warped, that is being worsened by heating, further causing the heated bed to separate from the platform. Although auto-levelling should compensate for smaller prints, larger prints that take up the entire platform will be affected by the curvature.
We're recommending that people temporarily try to *carefully* bend the platform straight as we are working on upgrading this component to a thicker aluminium sheet that also has the heating element built into it. We’re expecting the new platform to be a lot more flat and rigid, and also distribute heat better and more evenly. More news on this to come in the following weeks.
My bed is slightly bent down (the center is lower than the edges). I bought some more standoff screws on Amazon, and found that placing a standoff in both the 2020x450mm rods to hold up the center of the plate fixed the bend for me.
could also try flipping it over. the pcb board of the heater may be stiff enough to keep it flat as it tries to bow. if it is a minor bow this should fix it. use the edge of a ruler to check for flatness while preheating.
I had to flip my bed over, it is better, but I don't like the force it is now putting on the heating PCB. I can print small items, larger fail.
@dar.flem why are the larger ones failing?
i mean is the nozzle crashing. or layers not adhering?
@Chris D Bed too far out of level.
For the Z sensor, I modified the Marlin to set Z offset to 0mm, not 3mm as MakerTech setup. So I consider the paper height as 0mm, no math.. So the Z is good in middle of bed. The 9 point fails sometimes though, that's because of warped bed.
My layers issues are a bit different, I use PETg, not PLA. PETg sticks too good to the supplied sheets, I can not use them and I am currently using painters tape. I have some BuildTek sheets on order. For PETg, the parts are not removable from the supplied sheets, break or tear..
Also, if you have the mag sheet option, you must tape that down as well, or you will get print shifts.
My heated bed refuses to adhere to the build plate. The heated bed arrived bowed and the tape just isn't enough to get it stuck. Do I need a new heated bed @Makertech ?
No, I edited the marlin config file so Z home is 0mm, not 3mm as supplier. This is how my other 2 printers as configured, KISS principal. G code is ok with neg offsets if needed. Adjusted Z with thin paper, that distance is considered 0mm. No issues with PLA or PETg first level, if needed fine adjustments, edit Cure as manual states.
My bed very unlevel, disabled G29. And only use middle of bed.
Another thing I did with bed, since I think I’m waiting for a new design from MakerTech. Since the DSE option took 2cm off Z range, I added 1cm back to that by removing the 4 standoffs. Just used 3mm boot, spring, washers and a 3mm Tnut. So far no issues doing this. I want to print RC planes, hoped for 300 Z
@dar.flem with the standoffs removed. the t-nuts are no longer locked into place. giving them the possibility of sliding. to gain back the 2cm loss from the DSE. a piece of 2020 going across the top of the risers instead of between them. if doing this. raising the gantry nearly to the top before removal of original and install of new cross pieces, should keep the risers at the proper spread. with this modification you would need a 4 more t-nuts/screws and 2 of the 2 hole brackets. change the mounting direction of the spool holders to vertical. using them and the 2 hole brackets to attach the new cross piece to the 2040 riser. this modification should net you the 2cm.
one other thing you may want to check the gantry is running parallel to the build platform. with the printer off. measure the distance at both edges of the platform up to the gantry cross member. top or bottom shouldn't matter, whichever is easiest. ideally this would be measured with a small square to ensure accuracy. you should be able to turn the Z axis screws easily to adjust the heights till they are equal. the Y axis not parallel with the print platform could be causing issues with leveling the bed as well as printing issues. you may want to quickly check this before your power on the printer each time.
Update on My Heated Bed. So after i was able to get some ok prints my heated bed no longer heats up. The red LED no longer turns on. The thermistor is still working just not the bed heating.
@jonroberts87 Check the wires, at both the board and the solder connection on the bed.
Try swapping the heated bed wires and hotend wires on the board, then heat up the hotend that was switched, the bed should start heating up, but only leave on for a few seconds just to confirm it's heating because it's reading the hotends thermistor which of course isn't getting hot. If it works then the issue is with the board, if not then it's the bed. Re-flashing the firmware may solve the problem.
@Makertech Thank you. This resolved my issue. it looks like the heated bed cable was a little loose. Fixed the issue and i am back up and running.
Quick update on the new heated bed:
We're expecting a samples to arrive this week and are aiming to have a detailed update out by the end of next week.
Hey is there any update on this, as I am too having this issue.
mine looks so twisted i think it broke the heat thingy as it won't heat up passed 50
Heated bed update:
https://www.makertech3d.com/forum/announcements-releases/new-heated-print-platform