Heated Bed

Hey is there any update on this, as I am too having this issue.

mine looks so twisted i think it broke the heat thingy as it won't heat up passed 50

@jonroberts87 Check the wires, at both the board and the solder connection on the bed.

Try swapping the heated bed wires and hotend wires on the board, then heat up the hotend that was switched, the bed should start heating up, but only leave on for a few seconds just to confirm it's heating because it's reading the hotends thermistor which of course isn't getting hot. If it works then the issue is with the board, if not then it's the bed. Re-flashing the firmware may solve the problem.

@Makertech Thank you. This resolved my issue. it looks like the heated bed cable was a little loose. Fixed the issue and i am back up and running.

one other thing you may want to check the gantry is running parallel to the build platform. with the printer off. measure the distance at both edges of the platform up to the gantry cross member. top or bottom shouldn't matter, whichever is easiest. ideally this would be measured with a small square to ensure accuracy. you should be able to turn the Z axis screws easily to adjust the heights till they are equal. the Y axis not parallel with the print platform could be causing issues with leveling the bed as well as printing issues. you may want to quickly check this before your power on the printer each time.

@Chris D , with the stand offs removed the bed is still firmly attached. I put a weight on it and moved that axis, no slippage. The top metal from the mag kit slipping, that a different irritation.

Unfortunately, I don’t have extra 2020 to do what you are suggesting. I’ve put to much extra $ into this printer at this point and no more until the bed warping issue is resolved by MakerTech.

@dar.flem i understand the irritation with the flex plate slipping could use painters/masking tape at each end. i've been looking into borosilicate glasses an option for when my build plate does start warping. with expansion/contraction due to heating and cooling its bound to happen to the metal eventually. the glass is 3mm or so. it would cure the warping issue. the cost of milling aluminum beds is likely to cost more than a glass replacement. note to MakerTech here.

as for addressing your issue with leveling. with your metal build platform flipped over now and the bowing in the downward direction. you could try making some small wedge shaped shims. and place them in the manner shown in the picture below. placing these at center or possibly every 100mm or so. you could use them to help support the build platform as well as help with leveling. the picture is quick and dirty. but i think it gets the idea across. the longer the taper the more fine the adjustments can be by simply squeezing them together or pulling them apart.

i understand this is addressing an issue that should be resolved by MakerTech. but as i mentioned above bowing is imminent. the long distance of 300mm+ between supports on the long side is too far for my liking. and i plan to use something eventually to address it and these shims would do just that. no sense keeping my printer out of commission while waiting for a replacement part if theres something i can do to get by till it gets here.

@dar.flem why are the larger ones failing?

i mean is the nozzle crashing. or layers not adhering?

@Chris D Bed too far out of level.

For the Z sensor, I modified the Marlin to set Z offset to 0mm, not 3mm as MakerTech setup. So I consider the paper height as 0mm, no math.. So the Z is good in middle of bed. The 9 point fails sometimes though, that's because of warped bed.

My layers issues are a bit different, I use PETg, not PLA. PETg sticks too good to the supplied sheets, I can not use them and I am currently using painters tape. I have some BuildTek sheets on order. For PETg, the parts are not removable from the supplied sheets, break or tear..

Also, if you have the mag sheet option, you must tape that down as well, or you will get print shifts.

@dar.flem So you adjusted the sensor to trigger at exactly 3mm above the build plate? one thing about having a Z offset greater than zero. it gives adjustments in either direction. not sure how the firmware would interpret a negative number if one was needed.

this may seem like stating the obvious. but when using the adjustment screws to manually level the build platform. you generally want to start at whichever corner has the highest starting point and use that as your control point. every adjustment of a screw affects the angle(and in turn height) of each of it to each of the other 3 corners. i personally start at one corner moving clockwise. and it takes me 3-4 passes at each corner before my bed is level.

My bed is slightly bent down (the center is lower than the edges). I bought some more standoff screws on Amazon, and found that placing a stand