Has anyone succesfully got the printer to work?

This was probably not the best "first" 3d printer to own. I'm glad that while waiting for this I picked up another printer because I had to do something during quarantine. I'm sure some of the problems each of you are running into would have similar but maybe less magnitude with other cheap and entry level printers. So far what I've seen with, jams, auto-leveling, and assembly are all issues that I ran into fairly quickly when going beyond the defaults on my Ender 3. Getting a printer like that would easily allow you to print right out of the box, but what I see with building and learning this printer will be a better appreciation and understanding of the whole hobby.

Some tips:

1. Make sure everything is as square as possible, that all nuts and bolts are tight, that each axis moves freely without binding or drag, and that all limit switches are activated without components colliding with other parts of the printer BEFORE powering it on.

2. Double check that the hotend is put together correctly. I don't think this is an all metal hotend. That means the PTFE bowden tube should go right up against the nozzle.

3. Watch YouTube videos on compiling and uploading Marlin firmware. I think a lot of the setup issues regarding oddities in behavior will be fixed by a flash of an updated Marlin build. I've not owned a MKS board that Mackertech included in this build but it is common in the 3D printer community. There are tutorial videos from TeachingTech on YouTube for working with this board and Marlin. It is highly suggested to watch his videos for help. When I have some free time I plan on creating a branch of Marlin 2.0.3 bugfix with the Makertech config applied. Until I get the printer I won't be able to test, however.

4. Get some basic 3D printer tools. I still haven't received mine so I don't know what exactly they're providing in the box, but a good scraper, wrenches sized for the nozzle, and hex keys should always be right next to your printer (print a tool holder!). I also suggest getting a nozzle cleaning tool. They look like acupuncture needles and are just big enough to fit in a nozzle. You heat up your hotend to 200-220 and then poke it through to help remove clogs (https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning-Tool-Kit/dp/B07FBMYFS7/ref=sr_1_7). A brass bristle brush found at most hardware stores is also good for cleaning the bottom of the hotend after a failed print hits the bottom and melts all over it.

5. Make sure the bed is as physically level and trammed as best as possible. Even with ABL (auto-bed leveling) it is good to try to make your bed as flat as possible and it is still important that it be closely trammed (the process of making sure that the nozzle would be a constant distance from the build surface across the whole build plate)

6. Investigate babystepping and how to enable it in the firmware. This will help GREATLY and is much better than the paper method that is recommended in the instructions. Again, TeachingTech on YouTube has some good instructional videos on how to set up babystepping and printing a one layer large "X" that allows you to perfectly set the distance from the build surface to the nozzle.

7. Once you get it printing you need to print a calibration cube so that you can set your steps per mm. This is important as it's how the printer determines how much the motor needs to move in order to travel some distance in mm. The value in Makertech's GitHub for the Marlin firmware should be close but it is always better to check it after your printer is completely together so that if there are any variances it can be corrected.

8. The calibration cube will help for X, Y, and Z axis. You should also make sure that your extruder is moving the amount of filament it thinks it needs. Placing a mark on the filament 100mm away from where it enters the extruder and then telling the printer to extrude 100mm should tell you if it is pulling too much or not enough. Having over or under extrusion can create horrible prints or clogging.

9. Googling this process should yield the best way of making the calculations and then applying a formula which will tell you how to adjust the steps per mm in the firmware.

10. Being your first printer it's most likely your first time working with a specific filament. Print a temperature calibration tower (YouTube has videos on this) so that you can understand what temperature your hotend needs to be for best performance with the filament and how your cooling fan settings can have an affect.

11. Keep your filament as dry as possible. It is hydroscopic so it will want to absorb water. This causes poor printing. Google the topic and be prepared to be amazed how much there is regarding this (this is something I'm fighting with in my current high humidity environment of FL)

That turned into a longer list, but hopefully it will help you out. I've been waiting with anticipation of this printer for a while. Hopefully it's just some growing pains with the instructions and we can get them working and printing!

Thought I would share my first print. This is just as it came off the printer and hasn't been cleaned up apart from removing the additional printed base layers. For a first print I'm pleased with the quality.

I managed to get it work. My first print today was this little benchy boat. It is far from perfect but recognizable.

No its a piece of trash and worthless buy a different printer. i will also be posting YouTube videos about how terrible this product is.

So far, I've gotten one print to come out. The benchy boat printed alright, there are some oscillations in the z-axis that I need to fix. My x-y platform shipped with a pretty evident curve in the x-dir