To see this working, head to your live site.

Edited: Aug 15, 2020

Hi, i am on Step: Stage 09:Firmware - Step 12 Connect to Pronterface after Connect to the Printer:

in AXIS 3D Printer

Connecting...

start

Printer is now online.

echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3

echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)

echo:Compiled: Aug 14 2020

echo: Free Memory: 3407 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232

echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V76)

echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded

Testing X connection... Error: All LOW

Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW

echo:SD init fail

i can´t write a new (invertet x and y) Configuration.h File to the Printer...

It is normal that i hear a klick, klick, klick the hole time the printer is connectet with the usb Cabel?

Where is the fault?

thanks and Greets from Germany

Thomas

30 answers33 replies

63 Comments

Pritesh

Aug 16, 2020

Best Answer

Hallo! Wie ghet's?

1.) If you have the TMC2208 upgrade, you have to ensure that you made the change in the firmware to reflect that.

2.) If you have already made that change, then it's related to you not being able to write the firmware file to the printer. Does it give you a specific error when you try to upload the firmware?

No, the clicking noise is not normal. If you have the LCD display make sure that your LCD wires are correct. I had to modify mine by cutting off the little lock tab on one side. https://makertech-3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Stage+01:+Base/50?lang=en#s574

Thomas S

Oct 23, 2020

@Johannes L

Das denke ich auch. Die Wellenkupplung ist schon aus Metal. Diese habe ich als erstes getauscht.

Gibt es irgend einen Trick / Verbesserung wie ich die Z-Achse neu Justieren kann?

Johannes L

Oct 24, 2020

Replying to

Falls du nur eine feste Führung und 3 exzentrische Führungen für die Z-Achse bekommen hast, solltest du vielleicht ein Ersatz bei Makertech3D anfordern: https://www.makertech3d.com/pages/missingpartform

Ansonsten sollte die Führung (aller Achsen) so fest wie möglich, so locker wie nötig sein. Allerdings ist auch irgendwann Schluss was man mit dem Design des AXIS überhaupt erreichen kann - ist nicht wirklich ideal aus mechanischer Sicht.

Sollte zwar weniger was mit dem Z-Wobble zu tun haben, aber die Deckplatte für die Z-Achse sollte ebenfalls mit leichtem Druck auf die Z-Achse drücken.

Thomas S

Oct 21, 2020

Danke für Deine Hilfe und Deine Antworten.

Ich habe jetzt mal alle einstellungen am Drucker über das Display selbst eingestellt, bzw. eingestellt...

Ich glaube ich lass es jetzt erst mal so, da der Drucker zum ersten mal "richtig" druckt.

Wobei der "Höhenunterschied" der Platte recht und links schon dem Z Arm hin und wieder "Probleme" macht. Ich habe angst, das ich wenn ich den G29 Befehl nocheinmal durchlaufen lasse wieder alles komplett verstellt ist...

hier mal noch die Bilder der gedruckten Teile:

Johannes L

Oct 22, 2020

Replying to

Die Ergebnisse sind nicht wirklich berauschend aber zumindest druckt er "etwas". Auf jeden Fall ist ordentlich Z-Wobble zu sehen. Du solltest die Führung (Guides) an der Z-Achse kontrollieren und gegebenenfalls nachjustieren. Falls du noch die originale Wellenkupplung aus Plaste benutzt, wäre auch ein Tausch gegen eine aus Aluminium empfehlenswert.

Thomas S

Oct 13, 2020

so here a pix. I hope you can see it. (and you see the damaged heating plate).

The Hot Needle (golden left side): Different between Needel and plate 0.019 / 0.48mm

Differens between Heating plate and sensore (blue; with red ligt is on after G28 Order): 1,16 / 2.9mm

On the Printer Display: Z =0.48 (M114 Command the same Z0.48)

after that i will start the G29 Command...

Position in Front right to left...

Z on the Printer Display if the G29 command works:

9,52

6,05

5,54

6,22

9,52

2,5 --> Error:Probing Failed

Thomas S

Oct 18, 2020

Replying to

@Johannes L

Erst einmal danke für Deine Hilfe!

Wenn ich wie Du gesagt hast vorgehe:

M206 Z0

M500

G28

M420 S0

Steht im Display (und / oder M114): Z2.2

Gibt es eine andere Möglichkeit den Drucker zu Reseten? Er nimmt hier die Z=0.0 nicht an...

Thomas S

Oct 18, 2020

Replying to

@Johannes L

Danke für Deine Antwort. Ich bin jetzt genau danach vorgegagen:

M206 Z0

M500

G28

M420 S0

Danach war aber im Display und auch "in" M114 Z nicht "0". Sondern 2.2.

Ich habe es mehrmal versucht.

Danach habe ich über das Display am Drucker selbst Über Calibration versucht Z einzustellen. Jetzt scheint es etwas näher an die Heizplatte zu kommen. Auch habe icih versucht das "Schiff" zu drucken. Das ging ganz durch. Stelle nachher noch Bilder rein. Drucke jetzt gerade mal etwas größeres und schaue wie der Druck ist.

Verstehen tue ich es aber nicht. Warum geht es über das Programm nicht und über die Druckeroberfläsche bzw. das Dispplay geht es. Allerdings stand dan auch nicht Z=0, sondern Z=2.2. Ich habe dann im Display -2.0 Eingestellt und jetzt scheint es zu funktionieren.

Wenn der 2te Druck druch ist berichte ich weiter. Aber ich glaube man sollte das noch etwas feiner einstellen...

Johannes L

Oct 19, 2020

Replying to

@Thomas S M503 würde alle aktuellen Parameter anzeigen. Mit M502 und M500 kann man einen Factory Reset machen. Wenn man nur M501 nimmt, werden Parameter aus dem Speicher neu geladen, also wie nach dem Start - wobei dann ungespeicherte Einstellungen verloren gehen.

Thomas S

Oct 13, 2020

Thomas S

Oct 11, 2020

@Sinspin

for me it is better in Germany, please!

Zum Einstellen der Nase und Abstand des Sensors:

Ich fahre die Heise Nadel (Gold) runter auf die Heise Platte bis nur noch 1 Papier breit dazwichen passt.

Dannach stelle ich von Hand den Sensor ein, das genau in diesem Moment die Rote Lampe an geht.

Dann ist aber bei mir der Abstand bzw. Höhenunterschied zwichen Nadel und Sensor mehr wie 0,5 cm und danach geht der G29 Befehl nicht bis zum Ende durch.

So wie ich es verstehe sollte dann doch der "Höhenunterschied" zwichen Nase und Sensor 1 bis 2 mm sein und nicht mehr, oder?

Irgend was mache ich falsch...

Danke für Eure Hilfe!

Thomas S

Sep 28, 2020

I have adjusted the Z arm so that after the G28 command the hot needle is so far above the heating plate that I can just push a sheet of paper underneath it. The paper scratches the needle easily. The red light comes on. But the G29 command does not go through. It always stops on the right or left side when the X heating plate is either right or left ... If I "hold" the Z arm with the G29 command at the above points, "brake" with my finger, all positions go through. Then I save it with m500 Regardless of what I set via the M206 Z, the needle always goes too deep into the heating plate. This is completely scratched by the days / weeks of trying and the "glass" is defective with "deep" furrows ... I have no idea why this doesn't work ...

thanks for your help again !!!

Thomas S

Oct 06, 2020

Replying to

maybe there is the mistake ... Do I understand this in the right manner: The hot needle should be just outside the hot plate. At this moment the sensor has to be 1mm higher than the hot needle? This is not the case with me. For me, the red lamp is on when the Heise needle is just before the hot plate. At this moment the difference between a hoarse needle and a hot plate is more like 50mm ... Probably that's my fault, isn't it? Thank you!

Sinspin

Oct 09, 2020

Replying to

@Thomas S Hello Thomas. Im bit cofused about your wordings. We have there a print head with the hot end and the nozzle (the bass/golden thing), a heated bed (where the print will appear if all works well) and a leveling probe (that metal tube with the blue plastic cap at the end).

The nozzle have to be the lowest point of your print head. The end of the probe have to be always a bit above the nozzle. I keep it 1 to 2 mm above.

One more thing, german to english works usually good via google translator. The other way is in most cases not that clear, but it helps. I would be able to help you also in german. But i would like to keep it here in english to make sure everyone can read it.

Johannes L

Oct 09, 2020

Replying to

@Thomas S Sorry, I have a hard time following your explanations. The sensor is there to stop the hotend before it goes into the printing bed. This should be the case for homing as well as for auto bed leveling. If it already crashes into the bed then your sensor is mounted to high. The Z-offset is applied when actually printing something but the same principle applies. Too much Z-offset will let the hotend crash into the bed while too low will let the printer print in the air above the bed.

Thomas S

Sep 27, 2020

so, after many attempts and screwing and adjusting, I managed that the printer "prints" ... However, the needle is at the beginning about 1mm too deep and scratches into the heating plate ... can I somehow adjust that the Z value must be + 1mm higher? Thank you for your help!

Johannes L

Sep 27, 2020

Replying to

The initial Z-Offset configuration is described in Stage 9 - Steps 22/23 of the build manual. The final adjustment is described in Stage 10 - Step 11.

In short, the M206 Z<offset> command will set the Z-Offset where offset is your reading but with changed sign. If the hotend is too low, you would decrease the Z-Offset value.

Jay M

Sep 28, 2020

Replying to

Make note of the Z location with M114 command, that a negative (-) number becomes a positive for the offset... I assume the reverse could be true, but if you ensured your sensor was at the right height so that a 1mm feeler gauge could not pass under it when the light was on, then I assume you will always have a (-) number after adjusted down to just start gripping a folded over piece of paper.

Personally, I could pass a .4mm gauge under, but not a .6mm gauge When adjusting my sensor to when the light would come on. When doing the M114 I got a -0.4 for my Z height, so I used “M206 Z0.4” and things seem well.

Thomas S

Sep 27, 2020

another week later and i have fixed the z arm witout wobbling...

but the G29 command stops afther the 11 or 15..

Thomas S

Sep 12, 2020

Hello, after some spare parts have arrived, the G29 command still does not work properly. The printer or the needle is always too deep and scratches the glass of the heating plate. For the first few mm, no filament comes out of the nozzle ... Printing is no longer possible at all ... Conclusion to this day: I worked on it for almost 3 weeks, exchanged a lot, adjusted it and tried it out for 3 to 4 hours every day, sliced it and adjusted it ... Printing still doesn't work ... It's absolutely sickening... Does anyone have any ideas before I throw this thing away as trash?

Michael G

Sep 12, 2020

Replying to

If the nozzle is ramming into the bed then your z-offset isn't set correctly. Do you have the LCD option? If you do go into Configuration_adv.h and enable babystepping. It will allow you to adjust this on the fly.

https://youtu.be/iwhbeD2AduA?t=1011

Thomas S

Sep 12, 2020

Replying to

@Michael G

ok. Thanks for that info and video... I will test it tomorrow...

How can i lift the Front of my Z Arm? It is in the front a lite bite to deep. It is not in "Water".

Michael G

Sep 13, 2020

Replying to

You will be required to adjust the guides for the z-axis. It will be a trade for wobbly and the drop in the gantry over the distance for the y-axis and too tight that the entire gantry does not want to travel up or down the z-axis.

You should do these adjustments while the lead screw is removed so that the friction you are adjusting is just between the z-axis and the guides.

Thomas S

Sep 02, 2020

Ok, I think I found the bug again. The Z arm hangs down a little at the front ... where can I get one of the reorder black fixed guide? with me one was too little and one for it Eccentric guide too much. I think that's why the Z arm sags ...

Michael G

Aug 31, 2020

Let me make sure I understand correctly the symptom:

Send G28
Printer homes
Send G29
Printer probes the first 4 points then stops

Does it attempt to probe the 5th?

Does it probe the 4th by moving down, then up, and stop without moving?

Does it probe the 4th by moving down and stop when it detects the bed?

At any point does the nozzle contact the bed?

Thomas S

Aug 28, 2020

Hello again, After I had a defective temperature meter and replaced it, I am stuck with the G29 command again. He makes the first 4 points flawlessly and then he always breaks off. no matter what I adjust or adjust ... Has been going like this for 2 days ... What could that be?

Thomas S

Aug 23, 2020

@Pritesh

thanks for the picture !!! and for your Help again !!!

Thomas S

Aug 23, 2020

@Michael G

ok. thanks

Thomas S

Aug 22, 2020

@Pritesh

thanks, the wire has no contakt ... now ist works.

Questions...

The PTFE tubing has on one side a golden nut and nothing on the other side...

i can not finde a picture where i can see it...

Michael G

Aug 22, 2020

Replying to

Also make sure to insert the little orange plastic tabs/spacers in those black compression fittings. They keep the tub from sliding out by always keeping pressure on the fitting.

Thomas S

Aug 22, 2020

@Pritesh

oh ok ... i found the bug ... i'm so stupid ... sorry. I inserted the blue and black cables incorrectly. I plugged in pins 1 and 2. but not how correct 1 and 3 .... Now everything works fine. I'm on the last step now but the red lamp on the heating plate is not lit ... What could be the reason. I turn on 60 degrees and after a while there is a warning tone and the error in the display of the printer ... Any idea? Thank you!

And another QUestion: Where is to installt the PTFE tubing?

Pritesh

Aug 22, 2020

Replying to

What is the error that is displayed? Ensure the separate heated bed power supply is properly connected (you should see a light on the MOSFET board you installed) then verify the thermistor (really thin wire) from bed is properly connected to the main board.

The PTFE tubing goes from end of extruder motor to top of hot end.

Thomas S

Aug 21, 2020

@Pritesh

no the red light is off.

i test it with metal screwdriver... on and off and the M119 Command. but the z_min: Triggered. Allways...

Thomas S

Aug 21, 2020

@Pritesh

i don't quite understand. I think my english is too bad ... I checked all parts again and also realigned the Y arm. It is the same height at the front and back and does not "tip" to the right or left. But still I always get displayed. I do not get it. Is there a contact for the Z switch somewhere?

@Michael G

home X works home y works. then I move the hot needle all the way onto the hot surface. only 1 sheet of paper fits in between. As soon as the needle is in contact, the red lamp also comes on. Then I give the G28 command and x and y are about in the middle of the plate and the Z arm moves up a bit. nothing more happens. when I send G20, everything moves to the right (starting from the front of the printer) (i.e. exactly the opposite of Home x and Home y. z goes up and then Error ....

but alway if i send the M119 Command:

>>> m119

SENDING:M119

Reporting endstop status

x_max: open

y_max: open

z_min: TRIGGERED

Thomas S

Aug 21, 2020

ok. today i changed to the metal shaft holder and the same error...

Error:Probing Failed

[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed

after sending the g29 command.

I noticed that while testing M119 the stopper / trigger yes all should be open. But z_Min Triggered ... Maybe there is the mistake ... Where is the stopper at Z?

>>> m119

SENDING:M119

Reporting endstop status

x_max: open

y_max: open

z_min: TRIGGERED

Pritesh

Aug 21, 2020

Replying to

It's your Y arm. Front of the printer, make sure it's not off in the left or right direction, but also the up and down direction. That is, the part connected to the Z screw needs to be exact same height as the front of the arm. Also, the part attached to the screw needs to be in a straight line all the way to the front of the arm, in relation to the bed.

Michael G

Aug 21, 2020

Replying to

So you send G28 and it homes to the center of X,Y. Is that correct? Then it should slowly move down until the light on the probe illuminates. It will move back up and then slowly down. Is this all happening as I described?

If that is happening then I'm confused why the G29 wouldn't work.

I would certainly suggest checking the connection for the probe. It didn't fit snug on my setup so I used some hot glue to keep it in place.

Pritesh

Aug 21, 2020

Replying to

The Z end switch is your probe. Sorry, I didn't see that part of your message when I replied earlier.

Z triggered means your probe activated. Recheck wiring according to manual. Is the red light on top of the probe active when you receive the error?