So I've been trying to set up this printer for a while now (had the usual problems with incorrect cable sizing, "backwards" display cable, bent Z-rod connector, bed connectors broken, etc.) and currently have an issue where the Y axis doesn't work. When homing it moves a couple cm then stops. Moving the axis works (though had to invert the direction from what was posted on the guide). X axis works. Haven't tried Z homing yet.
Overall am very disappointed in this printer. Expected more from Makertech. A couple of notes:
--The display cables themselves are okay (I tried some spare cables from other printers/parts) and they were oriented the same way leading me to conclude it may be on the display board end itself where it may be flipped.
--Alignment of the axes is horrendously difficult. Also I don't quite understand the use of solid plastic linear guides (as opposed to some kind of bearing)
--Also would be nice to have some way of belt tensioning
--Would have been nice to have some of the wiring/cable/tubing precut/assembled. A touch dissapointing in that this is supposed to be a "kit" but part of it is "solder this yourself," "using a craft knife do this yourself," "cut this tubing exactly as described super precisely or it'll clog and bad will give you hell later" "cut off the ends of this wire and tie it together to another wire " (why not give a proper connector and attach it to the board via a splitter/connector?)
--On a similar note why is it that we have to PRINT a couple pieces (fan shroud, pi camera piece) for it to be fully functional? Could this not have been included in the kit?
--I got the TMC 2208 add on and got a connection error. Turns out that for some reason it wouldn't work on E1 so had to revert to the A4988 for both E0 and E1. Upon further inspection the pin spacing on the board for E1 seem different (making it difficult to place the jumpers and maybe this caused it not to work? idk)
I understand this is more of a "budget" printer but it's definitely not even close to being remotely beginner friendly. But more advanced users who could troubleshoot through all of this likely would be willing/interested in getting a more expensive but advanced kit anyway. /rant
I agree with both of you. This "kit" let many of the KS backer disappointed behind. And, its also a joke to see the response level from Makertech to provide help or edit the manual. One thing im really shocked about, to see how man adjustments at the firmware or via Proterface are needed to get Axis running.
Makertech have some good ideas. But instead of making it good from A to Z, is it too complicated to reach at that good thing.
One thing i really hate is that wire caos. If there is a fan or a heater gone... What a fun! Instead of an ribbon cable and and a few connectors at the print head is that hours of work.
That will be for sure my first big thing what i will change (have already some minor changes done). Just need to find durable parts and enough time.
Ok, trying to comment on a couple of things, except the quality thing - there have been enough comments already ;-)
"When homing it moves a couple cm then stops."
>> If you get a funny noise from the motors it would mean that the guides are too tight and the motor isn't able to move it further. You can try to loosen the guides a bit - or (carefully) increase the current provided to the motor with the drivers.
"Moving the axis works (though had to invert the direction from what was posted on the guide)"
>> I think that's normal when changing from A4988 to TMC2208 drivers
--The display cables themselves are okay (I tried some spare cables from other printers/parts) and they were oriented the same way leading me to conclude it may be on the display board end itself where it may be flipped.
>> The important thing is where pin 1 is on each end. The connector could be orientated correctly but still the cable could be assembled in the wrong way
--Alignment of the axes is horrendously difficult. Also I don't quite understand the use of solid plastic linear guides (as opposed to some kind of bearing)
>> Agreed. The use of plastic guides is because they are most likely cheaper than real bearings
--Also would be nice to have some way of belt tensioning
>> Same as above, would make the printer more expensive. You could print belt tensioners yourself or there are also some spring-like to buy from shops.
--Would have been nice to have some of the wiring/cable/tubing precut/assembled. A touch dissapointing in that this is supposed to be a "kit" but part of it is "solder this yourself," "using a craft knife do this yourself," "cut this tubing exactly as described super precisely or it'll clog and bad will give you hell later" "cut off the ends of this wire and tie it together to another wire " (why not give a proper connector and attach it to the board via a splitter/connector?)
>> Agreed, but again, the printer would probably be more expensive - but, maybe one would also say that it could have been cheaper with all the things one had to do themself.
--On a similar note why is it that we have to PRINT a couple pieces (fan shroud, pi camera piece) for it to be fully functional? Could this not have been included in the kit?
>> I guess that's also pretty common in that price range to print some accessories yourself - at least those things are not essential for using the printer.
--I got the TMC 2208 add on and got a connection error. Turns out that for some reason it wouldn't work on E1 so had to revert to the A4988 for both E0 and E1. Upon further inspection the pin spacing on the board for E1 seem different (making it difficult to place the jumpers and maybe this caused it not to work? idk)
>> That's strange. The manual was also not well written in this regard as it would been a lot easier to first install the drivers on the board and only after that installing the board into the printer housing.
I understand this is more of a "budget" printer but it's definitely not even close to being remotely beginner friendly. But more advanced users who could troubleshoot through all of this likely would be willing/interested in getting a more expensive but advanced kit anyway.
>> Yes and yes :-)