I had bought these as a replacement, but they dont have enough to power the heated bed. Does any one have an idea on what can be a better replacement? Thank you
The "solution" is to go with a Mean Well 300W power supply. It would be a small project. Most of them are sold as just the supply unit itself. You'd need to get the socket with toggle switch and fuse. Then build an enclosure or something to hold those bits and then run the wiring to the mainboard. You'd have to be comfortable with doing some soldering and electrical stuff. It's a project I had anticipated on taking up once I get the printer actually printing to a level that it's worth doing it.
Heated bed temp is limited to 55 degrees Celsius, at room temperature, on the Axis because of the power supply capability (96W). This should be enough for PLA. If you're finding you're having to go higher then it's likely that your nozzle for the first layer is too high. Going higher will put more strain on the PSU.
Our heated bed is a high quality aluminium platform with an integrated copper heater trace. It reaches temperatures of up to 110 degrees Celsius and is controlled through a beefy external MOSFET.
The platform is powered by a dedicated independent 24V power supply.
So are you saying that you lied to sell me a product?
When putting together the kickstarter the heated bed info was copied over from the Proforge 2S as they both run the same heated beds (identical spec). The heated bed itself is actually capable of running at 110 degrees.
The power supply for the heated bed needed to be the same as the one that runs the printer and in order to reach the buying power needed to purchase for the low cost Axis printer.
The heated bed was still tested with these power supplies and works well. If you're having trouble getting prints to stick it's likely that the first layer is not close enough to the print surface.
The description on the website has just been updated.
We're going to be looking into this in more detail over the coming week however at the moment we are suggesting limiting to 55 degrees but this might not end up being the final verdict - you may be OK up to 70/75.
It might be that Kevin has gotten a heated bed that's shorting out or a faulty MOSFET/wiring (which we can replace).
We will keep you updated as we know more as currently our focus is on getting replacement parts out that we've just received today from our supplier.
Well... I think my power supplies are starting to fail. I thought it was the thermistor. After tests it seems as if the printer will run just a little under 2 hours before going into thermal runaway protection. I've done a few over night prints and have completed a few 3-4 hour prints. Now I can't get past 1:45. This time I was lucky and was sitting watching the print (gyroid is mesmorizing). The temps were steady at 200/50. In earlier testing when I had it set at 210/60 and did rapid movements with the printer through pronterface I'd notice the temps drop during the moves. I thought this was just bad PID for the hotend. Now I'm thinking that the main power supply just can't keep up with the demands from the printer, fans, and hotend. Once large rapid movements start occurring it can't deliver the current to keep the temperature stabilized.
Man I don't want to sink more money into this thing to find out... :(
I don't have a picture yet, but I think I've solved it. I put a washer on the screw so that hit basically covers the whole thing. There's no way that it's going to wiggle around now. Got one test print off at 210/60. I'll do some more and then I might get crazy and try some PETG.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08764FDK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had bought these as a replacement, but they dont have enough to power the heated bed. Does any one have an idea on what can be a better replacement? Thank you
The "solution" is to go with a Mean Well 300W power supply. It would be a small project. Most of them are sold as just the supply unit itself. You'd need to get the socket with toggle switch and fuse. Then build an enclosure or something to hold those bits and then run the wiring to the mainboard. You'd have to be comfortable with doing some soldering and electrical stuff. It's a project I had anticipated on taking up once I get the printer actually printing to a level that it's worth doing it.
These hot beds have a problem staying at 60°C The power supply just isnt made to do that. 50°C wasnt keeping the print on the bed.
Heated bed temp is limited to 55 degrees Celsius, at room temperature, on the Axis because of the power supply capability (96W). This should be enough for PLA. If you're finding you're having to go higher then it's likely that your nozzle for the first layer is too high. Going higher will put more strain on the PSU.
but from the website it says this.
Our heated bed is a high quality aluminium platform with an integrated copper heater trace. It reaches temperatures of up to 110 degrees Celsius and is controlled through a beefy external MOSFET.
The platform is powered by a dedicated independent 24V power supply.
So are you saying that you lied to sell me a product?
Funny how the website has now been upgraded to say the correct information.
but you can still find the offending one on the kickstarter.
When putting together the kickstarter the heated bed info was copied over from the Proforge 2S as they both run the same heated beds (identical spec). The heated bed itself is actually capable of running at 110 degrees.
The power supply for the heated bed needed to be the same as the one that runs the printer and in order to reach the buying power needed to purchase for the low cost Axis printer.
The heated bed was still tested with these power supplies and works well. If you're having trouble getting prints to stick it's likely that the first layer is not close enough to the print surface.
The description on the website has just been updated.
So if my bed has been reaching 70/75 on the standard power supply, should I be worried?
We're going to be looking into this in more detail over the coming week however at the moment we are suggesting limiting to 55 degrees but this might not end up being the final verdict - you may be OK up to 70/75.
It might be that Kevin has gotten a heated bed that's shorting out or a faulty MOSFET/wiring (which we can replace).
We will keep you updated as we know more as currently our focus is on getting replacement parts out that we've just received today from our supplier.
I've been printing at 65/60 (initial and subsequent layers) on my tests.
Well... I think my power supplies are starting to fail. I thought it was the thermistor. After tests it seems as if the printer will run just a little under 2 hours before going into thermal runaway protection. I've done a few over night prints and have completed a few 3-4 hour prints. Now I can't get past 1:45. This time I was lucky and was sitting watching the print (gyroid is mesmorizing). The temps were steady at 200/50. In earlier testing when I had it set at 210/60 and did rapid movements with the printer through pronterface I'd notice the temps drop during the moves. I thought this was just bad PID for the hotend. Now I'm thinking that the main power supply just can't keep up with the demands from the printer, fans, and hotend. Once large rapid movements start occurring it can't deliver the current to keep the temperature stabilized.
Man I don't want to sink more money into this thing to find out... :(
That is quite disheartening to hear that parts are failing. I certainly rather save my money for a Prusa.
https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/general-discussion-1/mean-well-lrs-350-upgrade
Yeah, I was running at 60°C, so I worry about the replacement parts also. I also have noticed that 2-3 hours seems to be its limit.
So... I finished my Mean Well upgrade https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/general-discussion-1/mean-well-lrs-350-upgrade . It hasn't solved the problem. I even swapped out the thermistor. I'm now wondering if there is an issue with the thermistor seating in the heatblock
well shoot, there goes that solution. Maybe its time to throw the baby out with the bath water?
I don't have a picture yet, but I think I've solved it. I put a washer on the screw so that hit basically covers the whole thing. There's no way that it's going to wiggle around now. Got one test print off at 210/60. I'll do some more and then I might get crazy and try some PETG.
Here's how I solved my thermal runaway issue (aside from the custom built power supply and a new thermistor)
So a larger washer and the cooling print? Im kinda confused as this is my first printer.