I’ve been working on the settings for my printer but I’m having some serious issues with the DSH. I finally got the printer to print from the first nozzle properly, but no matter what settings I adjust, the second nozzle switches over and digs into the bed. It seems like any settings I change at this point only suffice to make the first hotend pull back while the second still digs. I've tried all the setting suggestions made int the guides but nothing seems to work and I don't know if I'm just not changing the correct settings. It was a pre-assembled kit so if there's something physical I need to do then I wouldn't know where to begin.
When I switch from 1 to 2 outside a print it lifts, switches, then lowers and there's not actually much of a difference- if any I'd say that 2 is a little higher than 1 but not by much. I think it was like 1mm higher. But when I run the pre-sliced print that had come with the printer and had already been printed correctly (because the print was still on the bed) #1's part and initial base for the print tower print perfectly and then it switches for #2's part and digs.
It didn't dig at first when I ran a test print at the settings the printer came with but #1 also was not low enough for proper adhesion and was just laying the filament down instead of "squishing" it onto the bed.
Default settings had probe offset to 1.3mm which resulted in #1 to simply lay down the filament and #2 to properly squish. I adjusted to 1.5mm to get #1 to properly adhere but #2 to dig. I have tried offsetting the second nozzle but have seen no perceivable change to one individual nozzle. At this point, I'm confusing myself on what to do, what I have done, what I haven't, or what the heck I'm supposed to try now. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
@Courtney Eley
Has Makertech got back to you with fixes yet?
I did get an email that "they are working on it", with a list of updates, but no time frame or progress reports.
Since I last wrote you, I have discovered other issues.
The extruders are not capable of adequately delivering filament to the hot ends and consistently skip, so I spent another $600 on Bondtech QR extruders. Got those installed and now the hot ends clog. The cooling is insufficient so the the heat break gets clogged.
So, today I ordered (2) Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum hot ends, another $400 (I could have bought a much more expensive printer with these upgrades already installed). I've designed and printed a DSH rocker to accept the Mosquito hot ends. Fortunately I have a couple other printers to print fixes / upgrades with.
Anyway, just letting you know what I've done, and see if you've had any progress.
@Courtney Eley
I think the biggest problem is the linear rail carts. I had to take mine off, clean them (degrease) then re-grease them.
Mine were so bad that the hot end axis would skip and I could even hear it grind. Mine would cause Z layer shifting.
No problems now that I've done that.
To do this, just do 1 rail at a time. Take it completely out of the machine, rail and cart (the slide part). CAUTION: Do NOT let the cart come off the rail while removing it, you will loose bearings if you do.
Here’s a couple of YouTube videos that explain and teach this process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kJ_ahcDnwE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loBHYcifzRM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nh-3J-CcZYI
Also, here's the results of my Benchy print. Any input on what can be solved with firmware and what is due to hardware problems would be greatly appreciated!
Okay, so, thank you everyone who tried to help but it looks like the problem isn't JUST the bed. I did a test with some physical levels and turns out not just the bed unlevel (quite badly on the Y-Axis) but the entire BODY of the printer is unlevel even though the desk it's sitting on is. Not sure if this has an impact on the printer itself. The enclosure panels don't fit right either in a manner that seems to say that the entire printer is skewed towards the front. To those that have printers that may have been damaged in-transit (I was one of the ones who had the really shoddy initial packaging), have you heard from MakerTech on what to do?
@Courtney Eley
I'm sorry to hear you're having such trouble.
I've been printing for around 6 years. I've mod'd a Prusa and a Creality Ender6, so I have some experience, but I'm no expert.
If you are new to printing it will be a bit more difficult for you. I hope you have some experienced friends that can help you.
If not, I would suggest that you ask Makertech to replace the entire printer and properly package it prior to shipping.
But, until then here are some things you can attempt to see if you can get it working.
First, If you've made any changes reset the printer back to factory. There are (2) places to reset.
Settings>Machine>Settings, scroll to bottom then "reset"
Settings>Machine>EEPROM, "reset"
Second, run the "L-Corner" to see how far off your bed is on the 4 corners according to the machine.
Third, manually move your extruder to each corner and try measure the level sensor distance. It will be easier than the nozzle. You'll need a small mm ruler, or take the top off.
You can run the g-code commands below from "Terminal" on the screen" or from Octoprint if you have it setup.
G1 X0 Y0 (front left)
G1 X250 Y0 (front right)
G1 X250 Y250 (back right)
G1 X0 Y250 (back left)
This will give you a more accurate idea of how far the bed is off.
buy some M4-0.7 x ?? button head screws. Two or Three lengths longer than the screws holding the bed down to the brass standoffs. I would look for a variety pack on Amazon.
Here's an example for reference: https://www.mcmaster.com/browse-fasteners/system-of-measurement~metric/rounded-head-screws/thread-size~m4/hex-drive-rounded-head-screws/
You will also need some washers. I would go with oversize to make it easier to install the screws + washers.
https://www.mcmaster.com/browse-fasteners/washers/system-of-measurement~metric/for-screw-size~m4/metric-oversized-washers/
A nice alternative may be a variety of standoffs that are 1-4 mm longer than the existing. The problem with standoffs is you will be jumping 1-2 mm per size change.
https://www.mcmaster.com/spacers/threaded-standoffs/thread-size~m4/
Whichever path you take, attempt to level the bed as close as you can. Anything under 1mm should be able to be compensated by mesh bed leveling.
@Courtney Eley
It is likely your print bed is skewed. Mine is. I also ordered a pre-assembled PF3 with DSHs.
It was damaged in shipping. Mine is not as bad as yours, but I can not print even a 30mm circle.
My printer will not utilize mesh bed leveling, so my nozzles dig into the left side of the bed but are too far away from the right side.
The sheet metal top, bottom and bed components are not strong enough to ensure a square & true structure. I can bend the entire machine with my bare hands, and have done so in order for my front door to close.
I think the major problem is the firmware. I can send a G28 (home) then G29 (mesh bed level) via terminal in Octoprint. The printer will home, but not mesh bed level. When I do it from the touch screen, the screen shows that the printer is moving to all the different coordinates, but doesn't actually move.
I have also had trouble getting the printer to bed level via the buttons on the screen.
When I press Menu>Movement>Bed Level>UBL>Z Align, I get "unknown command: "G34""
G34 is a valid Marlin g-code command (https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G038.html), but obviously Makertech has it coded incorrectly.
I have attempted to contact Makertech as have many both via email and the forum, but they are radio silence.
I will give them the benefit of doubt that they are busy trying to ship printers, but as a small business owner, I have sent them an email suggesting they halt all new shipments and fix the existing problems before they loose all their customers to extreme frustration.