I’ve been working on the settings for my printer but I’m having some serious issues with the DSH. I finally got the printer to print from the first nozzle properly, but no matter what settings I adjust, the second nozzle switches over and digs into the bed. It seems like any settings I change at this point only suffice to make the first hotend pull back while the second still digs. I've tried all the setting suggestions made int the guides but nothing seems to work and I don't know if I'm just not changing the correct settings. It was a pre-assembled kit so if there's something physical I need to do then I wouldn't know where to begin.
When I switch from 1 to 2 outside a print it lifts, switches, then lowers and there's not actually much of a difference- if any I'd say that 2 is a little higher than 1 but not by much. I think it was like 1mm higher. But when I run the pre-sliced print that had come with the printer and had already been printed correctly (because the print was still on the bed) #1's part and initial base for the print tower print perfectly and then it switches for #2's part and digs.
It didn't dig at first when I ran a test print at the settings the printer came with but #1 also was not low enough for proper adhesion and was just laying the filament down instead of "squishing" it onto the bed.
Default settings had probe offset to 1.3mm which resulted in #1 to simply lay down the filament and #2 to properly squish. I adjusted to 1.5mm to get #1 to properly adhere but #2 to dig. I have tried offsetting the second nozzle but have seen no perceivable change to one individual nozzle. At this point, I'm confusing myself on what to do, what I have done, what I haven't, or what the heck I'm supposed to try now. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
@Courtney Eley
I'm sorry to hear you're having such trouble.
I've been printing for around 6 years. I've mod'd a Prusa and a Creality Ender6, so I have some experience, but I'm no expert.
If you are new to printing it will be a bit more difficult for you. I hope you have some experienced friends that can help you.
If not, I would suggest that you ask Makertech to replace the entire printer and properly package it prior to shipping.
But, until then here are some things you can attempt to see if you can get it working.
First, If you've made any changes reset the printer back to factory. There are (2) places to reset.
Settings>Machine>Settings, scroll to bottom then "reset"
Settings>Machine>EEPROM, "reset"
Second, run the "L-Corner" to see how far off your bed is on the 4 corners according to the machine.
Third, manually move your extruder to each corner and try measure the level sensor distance. It will be easier than the nozzle. You'll need a small mm ruler, or take the top off.
You can run the g-code commands below from "Terminal" on the screen" or from Octoprint if you have it setup.
G1 X0 Y0 (front left)
G1 X250 Y0 (front right)
G1 X250 Y250 (back right)
G1 X0 Y250 (back left)
This will give you a more accurate idea of how far the bed is off.
buy some M4-0.7 x ?? button head screws. Two or Three lengths longer than the screws holding the bed down to the brass standoffs. I would look for a variety pack on Amazon.
Here's an example for reference: https://www.mcmaster.com/browse-fasteners/system-of-measurement~metric/rounded-head-screws/thread-size~m4/hex-drive-rounded-head-screws/
You will also need some washers. I would go with oversize to make it easier to install the screws + washers.
https://www.mcmaster.com/browse-fasteners/washers/system-of-measurement~metric/for-screw-size~m4/metric-oversized-washers/
A nice alternative may be a variety of standoffs that are 1-4 mm longer than the existing. The problem with standoffs is you will be jumping 1-2 mm per size change.
https://www.mcmaster.com/spacers/threaded-standoffs/thread-size~m4/
Whichever path you take, attempt to level the bed as close as you can. Anything under 1mm should be able to be compensated by mesh bed leveling.