Extreme underextrusion with direct drive setup

@walentin s or maybe try loosening your belts a bit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ if your software is okay, it can only be the hardware ^^

@walentin s also looks a Bit like your temperature is a bit too low

My belts were a little too tight as well. Loosening them a bit fixed my skipping issues.

@walentin s nope, thats totally normal it’s to tight if it sounds like a car running over a dog while printing or if it skips steps ^^

@walentin s Na immer gerne. Irgendjemand muss ja dafür sorgen, dass der Drucker funktioniert 😂

@Frederik Weis Nein, Sachsen.

@walentin s swaggy, BW und Thüringen hier :D

@walentin s try setting the retract distance to 1mm, 2mm could be to much

@walentin s the 215° on your CR-10 are very likely not the same 215° as you’ll get on your PF3. That’s why you print temp towers to get a temperature that works for the filament/printer combination.

@Johannes Weis #word yo

@Johannes Weis not sure ATM but I think 3mm with 50mm/s or something like this. Don't had calibrate it yet.

@Martin Bahmann try 1mm with 30mm/s. With the full metal hotend it could be that you pull the half molten filament too far up and sort of smear plastic inside of your heatbreak/cold end which would cause clogs. Also the orbiter extruder can’t handle fast movement (retract) speeds since it works with a planetary gearbox with ~7:1 translation.

@Johannes Weis ok i'll try this afternoon

@Frederik Weis ABS isn’t abrasive.

Use steel/hardened steel/ruby when printing with filled plastics like carbon filled, wood filled, or glow in the dark.

@Martin Bahmann brass nozzles can and will wear out over time but have a far better heat conductivity and are a bit cheaper (especially than hardened steel). Steel nozzles will work for a long time but need about 10°C higher temperature to work well than brass.

If you’re only printing standard filaments, brass will suffice :)

@Johannes Weis ok sounds logical ^^

I have also some abrasive filaments but don't print them on the proforge atm.

They are too expensive for testing^^

@Frederik Weis I heard a scratching while printing the upper layer so I think you are write^^ after work the fine-tuning can begin (:

@Martin Bahmann well, I don’t think that I changed the steps in my firmware, so they should be original. You should really compare the model numbers with the ones of the build manual, becau there were two different types of stepper motor.

@Frederik Weis thank you for your help so far.

Z steps/mm are now set to 400; x/y to160. That were my initial values and I think it works.

Now I have a homing issue in z.

If I start Z homing the bed goes down with 2 short breaks but never go up.

I disarmed steppers and manualy drive upwards to the sensor area. But same result. Is it possible that I had chosen the wrong configuration.h from your github?

There was one in the main folder (folder named with version number) and one in the folder named "Marlin".

I used the last one.

Your version solved the problem with mirrored x/y direction. In the version from the proforge github, I can level the bed but the axes are wrong ^^

@Martin Bahmann normally the one in the Marlin folder should be the correct one. Where do you come from? Your name sounds like you’re from Germany, if this is the case, we could also skype or something to get your printer to work ^^

@Johannes Weis where can I find the standard values? like I said, i think 160 steps was in x and y but I don't know z.

After installing the firmware from your github the steps in x and 4 were set to 40 and the axes are moving just e little. I set this back to 160 and it seems to be OK but z is moving to far... think it must be 320 steps (not 800 like in my firmware).

Can you please write me what value you have for z steps in the software settings?

@Martin Bahmann I don’t have any clue about Marlin step values. I installed Klipper on mine 😅

With standard values I meant the values in Makertechs firmware. What's the article number of your x and y stepper?

@Johannes Weis can't tell you the serial number because i'm at work but I compared it while unboxing with the manual and built them in like in the manual shown. Think it's really just the steps/mm value in the maschine settings. After setting x and y from 40 back to my first value (160steps/mm) x and y do what they should. Just z moves to far with 800 steps/mm.

@Martin Bahmann the ABL error is normal, as makertech said on their github: „Bed Levelling error on start up is normal, as no bed levelling has been performed yet.“ (https://github.com/Makertech3D/Proforge-3/issues/1)

Nevertheless ABL should work. You can test it yourself when holding the PEI Plate against the sensor.

if you haven't yet, you should also upgrade the display Firmware.

For the steps, loosening the belts could help.

@Frederik Weis ok thanks for the hint.

I have the display firmware from the proforge 3 github. Is this the right one?

Is it necessary to upgrade the display again after uploading the firmware to the board? Don't think so but I ask to be sure^^

@Martin Bahmann well, if you Upgrades the display firmware already, you don’t need to do anything anymore. I had the same error message while running marlin and everything worked fine