What I think might be kind of helpful, and I know there'll be some caveats here, but if we could gather a couple "golden" small benchmark prints in gcode format with some pictures and maybe the slicer settings used.. I think that would go far to help the community. I know when I got my first printer, it came with a SD card with some simple gcode prints for testing. If I end up getting something worthy of a good benchmark ha, I'll follow my own recommendation. I'm currently having trouble with stringing, but not those big fat bridges that grow out of the sides of the print.. I'm getting those hair-like strands that permeate with a lot of the travels. I've tried dozens of the typical things I'd do to circumvent this, but it is just not improving.
I'm currently printing this guy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023/files
And this guy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:909901
I'll post some pictures later, but I can put these models on my old wanhao III knockoff and they print beautifully (same filament spool and everything.. I even tried the same gcode for the sake of curiosity).
I figured since we all have basically the same printer (maybe aside from brass vs metal hot ends and marlin vs klipper), and PLAs at least seem pretty standardized these days, at least in my experience.. that we could come up with a couple good gcode prints that if you're printer is hosing them up badly.. maybe you can rule out slicer settings, the model, etc and maybe focus on your FW settings or HW?
Anyways long post to ask.. anybody have gcode for a retraction rich print without stringing they could send my way? (PLA if possible??)
Have you updated your FW? I just rec'd my PF3 with DSHs and I can not get mesh bed leveling to work.
My bed is almost 2mm skewed from front left to back right.
G34 won't even run on the FW.
G29 will not run on the FW. The screen shows a bunch of coordinates, but the bed and hot end stay in 1 position.
I can not even print a 30mm circle. The nozzle digs in on the left side and is too far away to stick to the bed on the right. Have you had any contact with Makertech? They are radio silence on all forum posts that I have seen, and all emails that I have personally sent.
24 min Benchy in PLA (corners of the cabin look like shit but that’s what you get for printing small features with 100mm/s and 3.000mm/s^2 accel), a tiny bit of stringing at the front because of the temperature being a few degrees to high.
Redesigned shroud in ABS (could’ve lowered the temp a bit for the small features in the logo. 70mm/s and 3.000mm/s^2 accel)
Both with 1mm retract at 30mm/s retract speed. Extruder current at ~600mA.
Use the Klipper profile of Johannes, it works great and I have no problems with stringing (200°C, 1mm Retract, 30mm/s)
I'm having similar problems.
This is my first print off it so not yet experimented but any suggestions on how to improve the quality would be great 👍
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:
I went here and went through all of the settings for the orbiter extruder and tweaked them in the FW to match these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4725897
I've printed at all kinds of temps, with the brass nozzle I can go between 160C and 220C and still see the same kind of stringing. I see this in normal prints too, which is what lead me down this path of bench marking. I took the hot end all a apart also, found a bit of play in the bowden tube between orbiter and hot end, so I cut another one and swapped in a metal nozzle while I was there.. still the same. Not sure if I'm missing the magic "no strings" checkbox in the slicer (cura) or if it something else :-/.