I've installed the regular Ultimaker Cura and added a custom printer with the same details as in the Makertech Cura (as I'm on MacOS Catalina and that is the only laptop I have available anywhere near my printer. ) I'm not hopeful of getting an updated Makertech Cura at any point and (other than the background image of the Proforge behind the print area) I haven't yet found any meaningful difference why anyone can't just use the Ultimaker Cura. These are the default printer settings, I've modified the startup and end G-Code, which is up on GitHub at https://github.com/agarthetiger/proforge-2s-g-code Unfortunately I can't see a way to export the printer settings in the same way you can for the profiles and materials, otherwise I'd post that here. It doesn't take too long to add the printer into Ultimaker Cura.

Thanks @Dataris Remiel, I've not done a print yet but flashed the firmware after uncommenting the EEPROM_SETTINGS, as well as G12 (nozzle cleaning, yet to try out) and M48 (probe repeatability) which are both working well. I've put the code on GitHub at https://github.com/agarthetiger/proforge-2s-marlin-firmware Interestingly, the Marlin firmware zip file also came with a Travis CI build script, which I've hooked up to Travis but it is failing some of the automated tests for the firmware. https://travis-ci.org/agarthetiger/proforge-2s-marlin-firmware Is this running successfully for Makertech with tests passing on Travis somewhere? I'd like to know if your tests are passing so I know whether the failures are anything I've done or not.

I read that too about PTFE tape. I think this might be recommended because of the E3D v6-like parts that we got (ie. they are not genuine E3D). I've found Tom's 3D channel on YouTube really useful, starting at 4:22 on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDq1Du9gaWM he shows how to change a nozzle, which many other guides also indicate about leaving the nozzle slightly loose then fully tightening it while up at temperature. From what I've read, at PLA printing temperatures a pure PTFE tape should be safe, and I print in a very well ventilated garage. I expect we also got shipped cheap tape, so no idea what else might be mixed in there. I think getting a good tight fit between the nozzle and heat break if they have both been machined flat and square to each other, and tightened at temperature, then the tape should not be required. I won't be fitting tape when I next change the nozzle and if I do have any leaks or jams I'll upgrade to a well machines nozzle and heat break.

I'm having some success with modifying the "Start G-code" which Cura adds to the start of every file I print. I'm storing each change I make on GitHub at https://github.com/agarthetiger/proforge-2s-g-code If anyone does use this (and everyone is welcome to do so) please make sure to change or remove the first two commands, which are for PID tuning (M301) and extrusion calibration (M92) and will be specific to my printer. If you don't know what these are yet you're best off removing them, but if you're having any issues printing then it'd be well worth reading the links above and tuning these settings yourself. The main change to the G-code so far is not to heat the nozzle until after the autoleveling is complete. This helps with the oozing and squidging back onto the nozzle but not necessarily with getting a good clean flow of filament before starting the print brim. I found this Ultimaker forum post about autobed leveling while nozzle bed heats up, I've not pre-heated the nozzle to 140 as I was reading that the actual glass point for PLA, the temperature at which it starts to melt, is around 60 degrees and I'm after reliability for now not speed. The last line of code " G1 F1500 X290 E15 ;Prime Hotend" should print a line of filament along the X axis of the heated bed, but the E number here, which is the amount of filament extruded during the movement) is really not ideal. I'm working on drawing some very low 3d shapes in the region of 0.2mm high which I can place in Cura alongside my actual print so hopefully I get all the lumps and problems out of the way well away from my actual print. NB. If anyone does edit the G-code it's worth using the Marlin documentation to understand every command. I crashed my nozzle into the print bed more times than I care to admit before realising I'd moved the G92 (Z offset) to the top of the file, to make it easier to edit, and this setting gets wiped out by the G28/G29 homing and autoleveling commands.

Does anyone know why the build manual suggests to use ptfe tape around the nozzle? @Makertech When googling for how to do this elsewhere for E3D v6 hotends, all the ones I've seen say to do this while the hotend is hot and none say to use tape?

@Makertech I read through each stage of the instructions last night and I think the problem is potentially due to the 2S upgrade. The 2S upgrade has two extra 2020 extrusions, which require an additional 10 M5 T Nuts. Although the instructions don't list how many of any part are required in each step, here is my count. M5 T nuts Stage 1 - 8 Stage 2 - 11 Stage 3 - 2 Stage 4 - 0 Stage 5 - 0 Stage 6 - 3 Stage 7 - 16 Stages 8 thru 11 - 0 Total required 40 Looks like all the other bags contained whatever extra hardware was required for the 2S upgrade but the bag with the T Nuts didn't. By shipping 30 plus some spares would explain why backers who ordered the 2S upgrade are short of these nuts. Please can you also confirm if you've received the form for missing parts and what is the eta for having these shipped?