Hmm. It should use the correct corrections but you can try it to see if it helps. The exact offset I found for my setup was 28mm x and 0.75 mm y. I'm in a country with slow internet at the moment so I can't easily look up klipper config commands.

For me it looks like this: but 1.5 mm is basically unusable for high accuracy prints. Having a bowl shape most likely won't be fixed by 4-axis control. But once you do have 4 axis control you'll most likely get a 0.6mm difference.

Close... That's really bad for the MIC-6 bed.... I'll post mine when I get back home from work.

Same... I lost my trust in them... I added something to the bottom of the carriage drivers to sync them. It's just a stiff rubber band but it works quite well for keeping left and right equal. No. My issue is that my plate is bend. Right down the middle. So it makes a V shape on the height map.

For the cable wrap I added a piano wire to it to make it not drag. I think either a number 14 or a number 12.5. It is super cheap, easily available and tough. Be careful when cutting it though. It broke my side cutting pliers (not a cheap zinc alloy but a proper hardened steel one :(.... ) and I had to actually grap a proper pair of pliers. This seems to have worked and the carrier is no longer hitting the cable guide before reaching the far end of the platform. I already have the bi-metal heat breaks and I got a different extruders but I haven't installed the new extruders yet. Does it really make that much of a difference? Ooh and I bought a smooth PEI sheet.... I hate the textured one... I may need to bite the bullet at some point and contact maker tech for the mic-6 plate since the plate I got is super warped (like 0.6mm difference from the sides vs the center.... ) or see if I can get one made by the workshop at my job.

Edit: It seems to work if I upload them in a separate post without text

When I was testing this it was a little skewed. I used: SET_SKEW XY=140.18,141.93,99.5 With that I get a perfect square. I also fortified the structure with metal cables to decrease the low frequency resonance. That worked quite well but that's mainly why I use the skew correction in the software because it is not easy fixing this with the fortification while maintaining the resonance reduction. I would like to include pictures but it seems makertech's forum isn't allowing that at this moment

Hey hey, I am on a business trip right now and I am planning on adding a week of vacation at the end so I'll send the pictures when I return back home. I put 4 of corner connectors on the front at each of the corners and did the same on the back. I did them a bit lower on the back due to the suction fan. I attached steel cable between all the diagonals except for in front of the door. I tightened the cables slowly while measuring the distance between the corners until it was square and stiff. I tested the resonance frequencies a couple of times and tightening the diagonals until the resonance frequency was high enough that I found it acceptable. I did replace the feet with stiffer things as well which I also bought from kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/steelmans/3db-ultra-anti-vibration-noise-reduction-feet-pads

I saw you did that. I didn't go that route since it's something that you only adjust once. I am quite happy with my klipper setup. For now the actuator works okay for me with very little wear and tear. If it really gets too much I might use the flowjet at work to cut a metal actuator but that's not exactly doable for everyone... I understand why people glue it. It's nearly impossible to get it to not slip if you don't glue it.

The frame rigidity can be fixed by having wires pull it straight. I bought 90° turn connectors (those right angle connectors that can't turn and have 2 holes in total). I put them at all 8 corners. Connected them with steel wire with spanners. Tightened it until the frame was square and the resonance frequency was in the upper 50's (I'm using klipper). It is going to be really good in the Y direction but due to the door still needing to open it is going to be "only" decent in the X direction. (58Hz y, 46Hz x). Edit: The stuff I bought. Feel free to adjust it or use other methods. Don't over tighten it or you are going to buckle your top or bottom frame. spanners: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419444303.html right angle connectors: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001406574630.html Steel cable: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989494316.html crimp connectors: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993894210.html T-nuts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001533847567.html

If you are planning to convert to klipper I can highly recommend to glue it so that it selects extruder 1 at 170° anc extruder 2 at 5° in stead of the default of 165 and 0°. Having a target at the minimum angle can cause bouncing issues.

Haven't had this issue at all but I'm not using the servo you guys provided since it was dead on arrival. What may help is to not have the servo go to the maximum angle it can go. So in stead of 0 to 165 try 5 and 170. You'll get way less issues that way. People still need to be able to adjust their angel though and I know quite a few people glued the actuator arm to the servo...

Hey hey, The work flow will be basically the same. I slice with cura, send it to mainsail and start the print. 1: I used mainsail. You can also use octoprint but I like how mainsail works. By default octoprint compatibility is turned on for mainsail. 2: probably not for a pi4. If you use a pi3 or a pi zero 2 there could be some errors if you run out of resources. 3: yeah, basically. 4: I didn't add integration for the screen on the side since I'm going to use klipperscreen. Others have added integration and it is a simple matter to add it. I might add it myself when I have more time/need for it

Hey hey, The work flow will be basically the same. I slice with cura, send it to mainsail and start the print. 1: I used mainsail. You can also use octoprint but I like how mainsail works. By default octoprint compatibility is turned on for mainsail. 2: probably not for a pi4. If you use a pi3 or a pi zero 2 there could be some errors if you run out of resources. 3: yeah, basically. 4: I didn't add integration for the screen on the side since I'm going to use klipperscreen. Others have added integration and it is a simple matter to add it. 11

I fixed it already by making my own klipper config for the DSH. I posted it on the forum

For those interested in a klipper config for the DSH check out this: https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/proforge-3-general-discussion/klipper-config-for-dsh Tested it and it works quite well.

Ooh, for those interested. I am planning to stiffen the frame by using crossing metal cables on the back and sides. I'm using frame connectors and turnbuckles to tighten it.

I didn't but some people do. If you do add some thermal paste only add a very small amount. Edit: I'll actually try this out once my DSH klipper setup is 100% perfect. (Almost there. Need to make some macros and setup some variable passthrough stuff in cura and prussaslicer) I noticed some layer lines that looked weird so I think adding this might help a bit.

Excuse me. It seems the thermistor runs at 5V so it becomes: [adc_temperature makertech] temperature1: 10 #These are taken from the official firmware. The ADC values have been converted to voltage values. voltage1: 5 temperature2: 15 voltage2: 4.995112414 temperature3: 22 voltage3: 4.990224829 temperature4: 44 voltage4: 4.982893451 temperature5: 76 voltage5: 4.926686217 temperature6: 96 voltage6: 4.850928641 temperature7: 116 voltage7: 4.716520039 temperature8: 171 voltage8: 3.958944282 temperature9: 190 voltage9: 3.445747801 temperature10: 210 voltage10: 2.785923754 temperature11: 240 voltage11: 2.165200391 temperature12: 268 voltage12: 1.593352884 temperature13: 281 voltage13: 1.197458456 temperature14: 312 voltage14: 0.850439883 temperature15: 340 voltage15: 0.630498534 temperature16: 360 voltage16: 0.449657869 temperature17: 385 voltage17: 0.31769306 temperature18: 400 voltage18: 0.237047898 temperature19: 430 voltage19: 0.189638319 I've double checked the temperature at 50, 100 and 200°C with an external k-type probe. at 50 it indicated 44°C. at 100 it indicated 84°C and at 200 it indicated 182°C on the outside of the hotend so this seems to be correct.

I eventually glued mine to the gear...It was the only way that worked okay