Marlin 2 has lots of new fields in those two files, I just opened them in an editor beside each other and updated the new config. that way. I have to do something with that drip tray as I blew anther solinoid recently. Currently run it with one extruder only. There’s an IDEX on kickstarter and anothEr one in a week or so. More $.

Same, put in 2x what’s its worth and original parts still fail. Hot end fan died mid 10hr print. Wires to fan are too small and broke inside bundle, large mess. Just never ends.

Went through a few servos. i Only run one hot end at a time because I couldn’t stop the dripping of the second HE. The tape also comes off and ruins prints. I have the printer/processes setup for T0 0.4 nozzle, PETg. T1 0.3 PLA. I only use one or other for printed object.

All working. search Edward Braiman on YouTube, he has lots of setup info.

PETg needs more separation than PLA, doesn’t like to be squished on first layer. Increase the Z a bit. I also destroyed my purchased build sheets even doing this with a PETg, now I use BuildTak sheets and filam bed adhesion is good and the object comes off without distruction.

Hi i had similar issue, the heating graph was staircase and hunted around the final set point. I think I posted about it here. My 5V finally became unregulated even with that Cap. I don’t think it is designed for Octo, solenoid, display, dual Z motors... I swapped the MKS with another, worked, but still staircases after while. Took plunge and put in a SKR 1.4, easy swap, Marlin 2.0.2bugfix. Perfect smooth heating curves on both heads. Next I enabled the eeprom and did PID on both heads and saved. Perfect curves now, fast as possible.

Swapped in a SKR V1.4 with Marlin 2.0 bug fix. Not fully configured but she prints.

@soundasleeper for PS, I’d recommend a Meanwell 24v 450W

Feel your pain, I've been through a few servos as well. I've a new one but scared to install it. Can't see why they are failing, usually as yours, during offset cal. They get very hot and done... For the bed adhesion, if PLA, the gap must be paper thin. Did you upgrade to the new bed and are you using the adhesion sheets? I had great difficulty with the original bed, but no issues with the new. For the PS, you can disconnect all the out put wires and turn it on, if it trips again, it's failed. If ok, then connect everything BUT the bed and hot ends and try again. Those two (three) items are the biggest power usage.

I'd guess too many polys or maybe the stl conversion is broken. Try uploading it to Netfab for repair? https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Makertech very quiet last month, perhaps working on Proforge3 kickstarter project?

@Daryl Smith not sure what your test line is. My Y is off centered about 1cm but I haven't had time to adjust this yet. Options are to create a new mount for the Y sensor, increasing it's distance from the Z rail, or changing the Y bed offset in Marlin.

During the Kickstarter project, Makertech promised Simplify3D dual profiles. I have created mine own that are acceptable to me, but I'm still waiting for the promised items.

I replaced the Makertech build material with Buildteck. I had both my Makertech purchased materials fail with models not being removable and tearing to get them off.

Installed new bed, definitely heats up quicker and is flat. I installed it without the standoffs to get a bit more height, prints sticking and bottoms so much better! only negative would be that the cable tie down point is missing, so I get more cable rubbing than before. Now to try again to get my second hot end working....

Both my stick pads are ruined from hot end gouging into them.... You can't use other machines Gcode, settings are in there and they won't be compatible with this printer. Sorry, out of ideas. Screams first layer issue to me, but all models should have issue and issue should clear up after 3-4 layers put down. If you have the 0.3 tip installed, your not trying to print above 0.25 layer height?

Lastly, then I'm out of ideas, you are reslicing the objects, not using saved Gcode. Print via USB or Chip? Or Octo if you got that installed. Another thought, you haven't enabled EEPROM? So people enable it and then forget to use Write to update Marlin settings.

I assume you use the exact same Cura settings for the cal cube as your next failed print? Logically, the issue is either Cura settings, Printer cal or mechanical problems. I searched the web and over extrusion or Z cal/binding/current were always one of the answers. The unlevel bed, even if messed up by poorly placed magnets, should print better as the layers increase! It's the first layer that is most messed up by this. After the first layer is done, what would happen if you turned both Z rods by one or two "click" upward? That would increase the distance between 1 and 2. I wonder if from that point on all the layers rub as before or are clean? Not sure your computer setup, but you only have one Cura version installed? I get bit by that a lot as I use S3D and it always keeps old versions when I upgrade.

What's up with yours? I see you've previously commented about bed level, but you still should be able to get something printed. Mine's down because MKS controller 5V out of regulation, can't stabilize hot end temps.

No issues with that. My build floats between partial operation and hard down. Been hard down for a few weeks now. Getting lots of spouse pressure to pass it to the metal recyclers.