Thank you for taking the time to help me. It's starting to make sense now. I tried adding the BED_MESH_OFFSET code, which didn't make things worse, but it still wasn't perfect for printing large objects. I might try the belt mod someone posted for the Proforge 3 to sync both z-rods, but that will likely be the last modification I make to this printer.

Hi, would you still be willing to draw a scheme and explain how you calculated the values for the mesh offset? Klipper documentation is not existing on that topic and blindly copying your settings would probably make it worse.

luckily makertech is certainly not making the same mistakes with his new iteration 😜. I will look into BED_MESH_OFFSET because I still use my own Klipper which hasn't been updated in a while.

I'm still on 3.0. Also have a feeling the bed mesh isn't compensating enough. Yet while I observe the printer laying down it's first layer I see the z-rod turning. So some sort of compensation must be happen

Hi, woud you be able to provide a link for these washers?

So is the upgrade worth it?

Did you manage to sell the proforge or is it just collecting dust?

Great tip on the piano wire, will look into that. Extruders: quality wise not much of a difference. But it's way easier to unload/load filament and I think it will be better for tpu printing too (did not have the time to test). I have the mic-6 bed, it looks flat and it heats very quickly, but even so I measure a huge difference, probably because of the printers design and the inability to correct this for the y-axis. That's why makertech went for the 4 independent rails in his 3.5 upgrade. I'm hoping makertech will release build manuals for those upgrades and design files so I can judge before even considering to throw some money at it. I don't believe his videos and images any more. I want to see it reviewed by somebody else first.

Thanks, it's the first time I do skew correction so I'm not sure what is acceptable. My settings without any structural modifications are: SET_SKEW XY=140.60,140.55,99.27 Best hardware changes I did are: bimetal heatbreaks titan extruder clones The main thing I'm still struggling with are the cables going from the hotend. The cables drag on the bed sometimes. I tried making an adapter with a cable chain but there's not enough space when you use the outer edges of the printbed and my technical skills are almost non-existent.

Saw in the comments of your printer.cfg that you need skew_correction. Out of curiosity what are your values?

That's why in my version I set the min and max as adjustable variables. I already commented here somewhere that a better actuator arm should be a high priority. I don't think glueing the arm is a good idea. I stress tested the servo going back and forth constantly for almost an hour and it showed some wear and tear because it's still plastic pushing against metal. Eventually the wear will be enough to get some wiggle room when the servo is powered down and cause layer shifts when one of the nozzles even slightly touches the previous layer, some loose filament,....

I had some bounces but playing with a delay solved this (haven't got time to test more).

I made a DSH klipper config (but still work in progress) some weeks ago. You can find it at: https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/main/comment/8afc1451-6f49-378d-98fc-ca2ec6a7e449?postId=62ab32f65c7ed50012ce5081 . I have send the same config to Makertech but didn't receive any feedback except for the "thank you, much appreciated" - mail so I don't know if they will use it or base features on for their config. You are free to test because to this day I haven't got any feedback whatsoever. Next couple of weeks will be too busy for me to further work on it . Most things work and some additions made, only activating the runout sensors and making a good (un)load script is on my to do list. As for the upgrades: upgrade 1: the biggest issue is not the servo itself for me atm, but the fact it has to power down in combination with a bad lever design. The moment the servo power is down and your hotend hits something it can wiggle a little bit, just enough to cause a layer shift. Somebody can explain to me how a relay switch would solve this because I'm no engineer? I want to see it in action first. upgrade 2: thermistors work fine and sourcing bimetal heatbreaks locally will probably be much cheaper for me. Motors don't have to be faster, I just want the thing to be reliable. upgrade 3: no need if not installed upgrade 2 upgrade 4: I'm perfectly happy with the marlin mode with the current screen to navigate through the klipper menu's. On my other machines I even don't have a screen at all with Klipper. But those are reliable and in the rare occasions I do want a screen I just connect to the web interface with my phone If you have to sell an upgrade to fix an issue, it's not upgrade but a repair. Only upgrade 4 would actually qualify as a real upgrade and ironically the one I least care about.

Just, tried with a BMG clone I have laying around and first test are great too. My goal is still trying to make it work with most parts stock

Apparently I was printing the same frog yesterday. I forgot to disable the ooze shield so it could have been better. I'm struggling with pressure advance and retraction settings at the moment. Because of the bowden pressure advance, has to be set very high, which results in my extruder clogging, that's why I disabled it for this print. So basically I have to start testing from 0 again

If it's your first printer I wouldn't advice to install Klipper if you don't know what you are doing. Still here's my config in attachement. I give absolutely NO warranty that nothing can break, especially the servo. In the macro's I made a simple delayed gcode (UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=repeatServ DURATION=1) which switches between the extruders continuously until you stop it with the code: stopServ. Ran it for 15 minutes straight without issues. My Cura profile I won't be attaching atm because I don't think it's ready Just make use of the makertech provided profiles, play with retraction distance and also change the startup gcode for the proforge to: START_PRINT BED_TEMP={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} EXTRUDER_TEMP={material_print_temperature_layer_0} 2 things I still sometimes have problems with: * when doing resonance compensation I get very low frequencies: shaper_freq_x: 28.2 shaper_freq_y: 27.6 Copied from the Klipper manual: "If the measured ringing frequency is very low (below approx 20-25 Hz), it might be a good idea to invest into stiffening the printer or decreasing the moving mass - depending on what is applicable in your case - before proceeding with further input shaping tuning, and re-measuring the frequencies afterwards. For many popular printer models there are often some solutions available already." So, I wonder if it has something to do with the rubber feet. * I still sometimes get clogs on both extruders. My theory is because of the narrow internal diameter of the bowden tubes but I can not prove this.

Hi, I just wondered how you guys where able to identify the high temp thermistor as a PT100 (I thought those needed an amp board) and how you were able to find the temperature table to set in Klipper?

Hi, I just wondered how you guys where able to identify the high temp thermistor as a PT100 (I thought those needed an amp board) and how you were able to find the temperature table to set in Klipper?

I'm still working at a klipper config but my first tests with adding a dwell command of a 1' followed by a power down of the servo, seems to work. G4 P1000 SET_SERVO SERVO=extruder_servo WIDTH=0

I build the printer myself and I've got the same experience/issues as you. So it must be a design issue/bad quality parts or a combination.