Yes, but before you home it the first time, you need to readjust your sensor so that the gap between the nozzle and PEI sheet is right. Just follow those instructions again around adjusting the sensor, and will be fine. You will be “lowering“ the sensor so that it can trigger earlier and this keep the nozzle distance from the sheet. Then retune your zLayer height and all should be well.

Woot. Just got my dispatch notice for the linear rails kit. Thank you!

Excellent! Thank you!

Are we still looking at next month (Jan 2022) for the shipments?

Ordered the kit today... had also ordered a lot of rails. :) kit should make it easier.

I just ordered… 1xMGN15H - 250mm 1xMGN15H - 300mm 1xMGN9H - 250mm 1xMGB9H - 300mm 2xMGN7H - 350mm 2xMGN7H - 400mm Couple of extra carriages for each of them as well. I figure I can use whichever ones I don’t use on something else eventually. I also got some different style of the red square plastic/metal couplers to try, and have some ball bearings to try in the coupler too.

Thank you, Adeel. Could you update the github guide with the parts list/sizes? I'm sure I could open the CAD and review from there, but if you have this that'd be a lot easier to just order things from AliExpress. For these: x2 MGN7-H with two carriages each for the platform (x-axis) x1 MGN9-H for the Hotend (y-axis) x1 MGN15-H for the Gantry (z-axis) Is that 350mm or 400mm for the 2xMGN7-H with two carriages each? 250mm or 300mm for the MGN9-H? 250mm I assume for the MGN15-H? Recommended bolt sizes? Cap Head I assume, but what size/length? Going to drill/use every hole? Every other? 3 or 4 total? For the nut (washer?) perspective, just going to use a locking nut or lock washers or something? A new GT2 belt is mentioned, that just because the first belts tend to start slacking over time? Or since the base plate will be off, might be a good time to replace? And whatever else I'm missing. Printing the parts in PET-G is the "easy" part. I'm mostly worried about the hole drilling as pointed out. But I'm thinking of how to create taped down templates or tape here and punches to get the right hole placement. Thanks again for the attention! It was the first printer my son and I built, and while I'm glad we got it mostly working, doing some improvements sounds nice too.

Addiction pics:

Woot. Glad you got it going as expected.

First off, the nozzle path is controlled by your slicer, the printer just moves the XYZ and Extruders and changes the temperatures however the slicer GCODE tells it to. Secondly, from the video we can‘t see if it is laying down a line on the return path or not. Certainly is moving in the right direct. When it gets to the ”end“ of a line, it should move over with width, and extrude on the way back. From what we can see of the video, that is exactly what it is doing. If you have a magnifying glass or microscope, take a close up loop and see if you can tell. Or put a .8mm nozzle on and change your config and slicer settings to match the new size nozzle and see if it looks like the wiki picture (that looks like at least a 1mm nozzle if not bigger - and the slicer will work a little differently at the end of lines at that size i bet). In other words I bet it is doing a zig zag, but you just can’t tell. See if you can get a different picture from a bit higher so if we can see it a bit better. jay

I am still learning, I never had issues like this myself, so hasn’t been something I have had to figure out. Unfortunately there aren’t many folks still working on getting their Axis tuned, so not sure if anyone else can help with some better, more experienced advice. First off, is the the PLA that came with the Axis? Was the bag vacuum sealed or was there some air in it? Of the originals red/blue rolls I received, one wasn‘t and it really wasn’t great. If you had two, i would try the other. Might want to buy another roll if you only have the one to try. Secondly with your bed’s level being off; as long as you ran the mesh bed leveling (G29), you should probably be ok. At least for me I as able to getter results by adding some 10mm (think that is right size, in my tuning post) in the mid points of the heated bed to good effect. That said, you cube does look like the pressure is building in the nozzle and popping out sometimes on the first layer in certain spots, the “squiggly“ parts on west and south sides of you cube bottom... however it doesn’t appear on the outmost lines... so while it might be leveling, I dunno. On the walls of the cube, hmmm. Having you printed (or had someone else print) your part cooling fan shroud yet? I could potentially see that being an issue from the bits and pieces of what I know. But again, could be the nozzle getting clogged (PLA quality/dryness above) or something else - were you super careful not to have any of the thermal/pipe tape on the top of the nozzle/heat break that could be blocking/dragging the filament a little? You mention you feel it isn’t under extrication, have you done the 10cm of filament testing to make sure your extruded steps are right? I believe Michael here posted about it. Essentially you measure off 10mm (or 20mm) on your filament, then extrude 10mm and measure the difference to the 20mm mark; then however much of a % of 10mm is left, you adjust you E steps by that amount. MakerTech also posted a new config file that changed from the original 95 down to 85 or something. I had to go back to 95, and I think I might need to go 105, ad I have been manually tuning flow up to 110 in the Tube menu for a while now and seems to be a bit better. I need to run that measurement test again. You could trying going to the Tune menu and adjusting flow up to 110 or 120 and see if you get different (better results). Like I said, I bet there are other things that other people know to try. But wanted to try and lend a hand. If you want to read through my tuning thread as well, can see everything I have done to get pretty good results so far.

Here is the Kickstarter Standard 3D Printer test results. Need to retry at a bit less temp, but still scored 18.5, not bad. The XY Dimensional accuracy was top notch. Most other things were average or slightly above average. 5 - XY Dimensional Accuracy with .07 difference. 2.5 - Fine Flow Control - all spires were 40mm and light stringing on top. 4 - Fine Negative Features - all but one fell out or easily pushed out. 3 - Overhangs - bet lower temp would help pick up at least another point with 20-degree not dropping, maybe 2-points with 15. 4 - Bridging - again 5-degree lower temp, I bet the 5th one would be ok too. Barely touching a single dropped strand. 0 - XY Resonance - adjust the acceleration I think to fix these? 0 - Z Axis Alignment - I think it is as good as I can get it... might try brass nut again. ————-———-— 18.5 - Total Score Our Prusa i3 MK3S scored 23.5; haven’t tried the Prusa Mini yet. JG Dual Artist and Weedo x40, not here yet... or the Rat Rig... might have a 3D printer addiction problem... and want to get the next version of the SecKit too whenever he opens beta or ordering up.

Very tiny adjustments of the two eccentric guides for the X-axis build plate was my issue. Agree, at either extreme of the build base it is tight and does vibrate if too tight. The build base for mine is very slightly bent on the far right side, I (as carefully as I could) tried straightening/bending it out and did get a little better. Trick for me, was to adjust those guides just the tiny, tiny, tiniest little turn each separately and watch with a bright light directly above the plate, with a a straight edge (white paper worked well for me) and watch the shadow while moving X-axis 10-100mm each direction, to see if it moved side to side - I think I posted a video of what was happening somewhere in the forums. At first it would definitely shift .5-2mm as it would change from left to right direction... move +10, then move -10 observe the shift... slightly move first eccentric, repeat with second eccentric. While I had things working well, I changed out the couple and the lead-screw nut on my Z-Axis and I can no longer get Z-wobble under control. I shouldn't have touched it, since then - I've tried going back to exactly what I had and multiple other iterations and I cannot get rid of the 8mm Z-axis wobble showing up. I THINK I got really lucky just putting the lead-screw nut in the hole of the gantry when everything was working great - and now I can't get it back in the right spot of something. Grrrr. I have some new nuts to try - brass are bad, and the plastic ones seem to vary greatly... Should have left it alone once I got everything tuned. Except for that 8mm wobble though, everything else still works great on the unit. Good first layers (putting spacers in between the build plate and base plate helped a LOT here, especially in the middle around 150mm mark. Is tight enough in there that I didn't need screws/glue. That got the build surface straighter instead of warping up from the center to all the corners. I'll post about that at some point, just too busy.

So... what was the question around "Reason to stay with Axis?" about? Personally... we also have a factory assembled Prusa i3 MK3S that my wife primarily uses, and we have a Prusa Mini that just arrived and we'll be setting up this weekend - light assembly needed. Also have one of the JD Maker Artist D Independent Dual Extruder Pro's from Kickstarter, that hopefully ships in January and isn't a massive hoax. : -) That said, the Axis is still getting used, and my reason is that I've learned a ton about 3D printing with it, and still have fun continuing to see how much better I can make it with each thing I read or learn. That's my reason.

After upgrading the power supply I was able to get the bed up to 110c ... I was able to print PETG - however I was unable to remove PETG from the sticker on the flexplate. I ruined a couple of flexplate stickers that way. I bought some more stickers, but the old stickers are nearly impossible to get off. Had to use lots of Goo Be Gone. While I don't plan to try and print PETG again, if I did, I will use a bare metal Flexplate and blue masking table/glue I think. But it did print fine (though fine is relative as my printer was not as well tuned as it is now - but it was of the same quality I was getting out of PLA at the time).

I had one corner that would not probe after I increased the number of probe points, so I had to change the point from 3mm to 4mm if bed leveling with a hot bed, and 5mm if leveling with a cold bed.

I've now went to 15x10 measurement points. Turned off the Bilinear Subdivision and kept the Extrapolate Beyond Grid on. In my 80x80x0.2 first layer square I still had a couple of high points, so figured this should really help the accuracy and it's a one time thing essentially, so why not. Here is my grid now... Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid: Recv: 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Recv: 0 +1.502 +1.002 +0.970 +0.788 +0.635 +0.500 +0.375 +0.192 +0.402 +0.513 +0.592 +0.788 +1.045 +1.200 +1.580 Recv: 1 +1.407 +1.062 +0.825 +0.638 +0.470 +0.327 +0.255 +0.250 +0.242 +0.327 +0.415 +0.595 +0.855 +1.132 +1.442 Recv: 2 +1.287 +1.015 +0.730 +0.545 +0.427 +0.282 +0.207 +0.192 +0.172 +0.232 +0.332 +0.505 +0.765 +1.077 +1.360 Recv: 3 +1.170 +0.870 +0.630 +0.430 +0.297 +0.225 -0.090 -0.115 +0.073 +0.212 +0.280 +0.430 +0.678 +0.868 +1.230 Recv: 4 +0.703 +0.448 +0.558 +0.380 +0.262 +0.175 +0.100 +0.007 +0.095 +0.142 +0.225 +0.392 +0.582 +0.520 +0.952 Recv: 5 +1.097 +0.713 +0.538 +0.287 +0.147 +0.052 -0.015 -0.017 -0.032 +0.040 +0.102 +0.227 +0.442 +0.683 +0.968 Recv: 6 +1.055 +0.730 +0.445 +0.232 +0.075 -0.040 -0.085 -0.118 -0.085 -0.005 +0.067 +0.197 +0.400 +0.685 +0.988 Recv: 7 +0.940 +0.625 +0.297 +0.030 -0.130 -0.250 -0.297 -0.322 -0.330 -0.270 -0.187 -0.057 +0.145 +0.410 +0.755 Recv: 8 +0.730 +0.565 +0.260 -0.017 -0.167 -0.307 -0.568 -0.598 -0.518 -0.380 -0.273 -0.120 +0.005 +0.252 +0.680 Recv: 9 +0.553 +0.442 +0.157 -0.075 -0.295 -0.420 -0.565 -0.670 -0.648 -0.510 -0.413 -0.282 -0.100 +0.135 +0.538 Here is my mesh bed leveling config now... #if EITHER(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) // Set the number of grid points per dimension. #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 15 #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 10 // Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column //#define PROBE_Y_FIRST #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) // Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt? // Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge. #define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID // // Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method. // Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh. // //#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION #if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION) // Number of subdivisions between probe points #define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3 #endif #endif

I could not get v2 splitter to hand feed out of one side even. Printed in PETG on a Prusa i3 MK3S... twice, once at .2 layers and then again at .1. Second one worked a little better but still couldn’t feed past the entry for the E2 side. E1 would work. I gave up with those and went back to the one that shipped with it. Wrong size embedded nut for one screw on the hot end side, so could never fully close, had a crack. Wrong size screw sent for middle or maybe I lost it and that was just the extra small screw they sent (though directions i don’t think even mention the middle). I had 2.5mm screw so used that to mostly get tight. was able to feed by hand so got my hopes up! and crushed. Whenever I extracted E2 after extruding a test, the stringing and blob at the end prevented it from coming back in. thinking about it, there just seems to be too many variables for dual extrusion to ever be very reliable for like this. Going back to single.

You're welcome!

M502 to reset to initial/factory settings, then M500 to save them. You might want to follow the steps I use each time I have made adjustments or changed something to re-level and reset the z-offset. Seems to work well enough for me. The steps are listed in the thread about first layer not sticking that I just replied to in the last couple of days. No pictures unfortunately like the nice build manual has... which essentially what those steps are just condensed with some tips in them.