With the unmodified AXIS printer there is a lot of axis skew especially on the xy plane - at least for me. I had about 5mm skew on x with 100mm in y. That causes any rectangular shapes to become a parallelogram. Thats probably not helpful if you want to print something beyond weird art. So there are a couple of methods to correct for the skew: 1) Get your printer right - or - get a right printer 2) Modify the 3D model - probably not want you want to or always can do 3) Use some G-Code extension (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050059) or G-Code post-processing tool (https://github.com/MechanizedMedic/gskewer) 4) Enable Marlin firmware skew compensation I will explain the details for 4) as it seems the most convenient solution in my opinion. Again, there are a couple of different options to use: 4a) Set correction length values via Marlin's configuration.h 4b) Set correction factor via Marlin's configuration.h 4c) Just enable skew correction and use M commands The 4c) option seems to provide the best flexibility as you can just modifiy the values w/o changing the firmware. So how this is done? Steps: - Uncomment #define SKEW_CORRECTION in configuration.h to enable the skew correction feature - Uncomment #define SKEW_CORRECTION_GCODE to enable M582 command - Save the configuration.h, compile the updated firmware and upload to your printer - Print some test structures like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185 - The calculation of the skew factor is described in the configuration.h and there is also a very good video on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfAb5IaHDSo) - After you have measured the test structure and calculated the skew factor you can use the M582 command to set the skew factor on the printer - M582 S<xy_skew_factor> will just set the factor for the xy-plane - M582 I<xy_skew_factor> J<xz_skew_factor> K<yz_skew_factor> will set skew factors on all axis - Don't forget to save the configuration with M500 - If you want to check the configuration use M503 to display the settings Now to the results: Skew compensation is obviously working pretty well. The not-so-straight line on the right side of the left test structure is mainly because the print came of the bed and warped a bit upwards. Please note that straight movements on the x- or y-axis will have now a small component of movement in the other axis as well (e.g. a movement in x will include some small movement in y as well). The printer will make some more noise and you might get some more ringing or other visible artifacts due to more vibrations. You can also compensate for xz/yz skew in a similar way. Hope this was helpful.

Thought I'd share my results with the printer as it might help others. Feel free to share your results as well. This 3dbenchy above is 3 weeks old now and was my 3rd print that made it beyond the brim and couple of first layers. The only changes to the AXIS were: 1) Exchange of the plastic coupling with a metal D20L25. This is smaller than the also recommended D25L30 which I also have around but not tried yet. 2) Swapping the 0.3mm nozzle with a 0.4mm nozzle from the power pack. The 0.3mm got clogged during some earlier (failing) test prints. Here are also some failed prints next to the "not so bad" benchy: The benchy on the right was with the clogged 0.3mm nozzle. The thing in the front was after changing to the 0.4mm nozzle with a too low Z-Offset and/or some irregularity in the filament that created the blob which then moved the whole bottom layers around on the print bed. This is some worse case scenario when leaving the printer alone - which I would not recommend for the AXIS anyway. Open issues: All the mechanical inaccuracies and instabilities - don't have to add much to this topic, guess it's well known by now - haven't tried any of the structural suggestions or modifications yet - tried to exchange the plastic lead screw nut with a metal anti-backlash nut but I could only barely move the z-axis by hand so removed it again Stringing and other filament issues - the blue filament came with the air-tight bag broken so it might have drawn to much moisture already - need to check correct nozzle temperature, maybe do a PID tuning - the print parts fan speed seems to spin to high Bed skew - not visible in the picture of the benchy but there is a lot of xy skew (about 5mm in x for 100mm in y) - related to the general mechanical issues with this printer - currently investigating and trying to correct this (will do another post for this) Bed adhesion - don't have a heated bed so it's a bit more difficult - larger parts (xy) are coming of the bed after ~10mm of print layers - might be related to the print parts fan speed too high (also don't have the fan shroud yet) - haven't tried to print with glue, tape or other helpers yet Regards, Johannes