I am getting ready to start my "first print" just to find that my DSH is not fully switching anymore. As it turns out, the black servo arm (or servo horn) is stripped out where the arm connects to the servo (there seems to be some oil leaking from the servo). I can't just buy this black plastic arm; I have to buy a whole servo to replace it... Which isn't a huge deal, as they are cheap enough. But I have no confidence the replacement won't end the same way! I've emailed Makertech and am waiting on an answer. In the mean time, I have counted the splines on the servo, to 21T, and I am hoping to get a 21T aluminum servo horn to fit inside the red ABS cover (not really sure if I can get one that will mount to the MG90S, as this is such a small servo, it doesn't seem to warrant aluminum attachments...) Does anybody else have experience or suggestions on this problem? Servo replacement suggestions? Servo horn suggestions? I feel like this servo is a problem, and I'm not the best way to remedy it at the moment.

I'm still trying to finish building my ProForge 3.5... But during my pre-flight checks, I'm finding some issues. In particular, the screen is very slow to respond. Sometimes a touch is registered reasonably quick, but most of the time I have to press and hold the screen 2-4 seconds before it will register the touch. I haven't finished my pre-flight checks, so I don't know if there's something else I have to do to configure it... But are there any experiences here?

I did not like the washer stack that comes with the default Proforge 3 build.. But to buy actual idler pulleys was going to cost a good bit, plus it will require drilling and tapping the frame for the correct shoulder bolts. So instead, I took the old school RepRap approach, and used stacked flanged bearings. I used F604ZZ (4x12x4mm shielded) bearings, but you can use F604-2RS if they are more available to you. You will need 24 bearings so you can double stack them to make 12 idler pulleys. With these exact bearings, you can use the hardware that came with the Proforge. You need to use some of the washers, but you will have a lot left over. I took pictures of each stack, side-by-side. Pay close attention to where the washers go so you get everything aligned properly.

There appears to be a machining burr, or catch at the end of the DSH heatsink. Where the PTFE should exit the heatsink and come in contact with the heatbreak (both paths). It catches my PTFE right there, flush at the edge of the exit and prevents the tube from fully seating into the pocket of the heatbreak (which would create a small chamber to catch filament). I intend to ream the end out with a drill bit, but wanted to know if anyone else was seeing this? Anyone else already resolve this issue?

I don't know if this is better in the DSH sub forum or here, but as I got the DSH with my Proforge 3, here we are... I understand why the DSH has the cheap plastic arm extruders; we are consumers, and for most, cost is king... I bought it, expecting these. But before I start calibrating e-steps and running anything, I want something a little nicer. Does anyone have a suggestion on a nice, dual gear alternative? Preferably something like a BMG, or something that is mostly just a bolt-on swap? (I don't feel like custom designing a mount...)