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sebastian waters
Oct 27, 2020
In 3D Printing
Im sure most people have stopped looking at this forum now but its worth a shot still. I did have my printer running ok ish. i made some upgrades to the linear rails to make it run smoother. after putting the printer back together and recalibrating everything as per the set up guides. the printer still trys to print the first layer too high. about 0.5mm too high. i have managed one or two prints but putting an extra manual offset before printing but this isnt actaully fixing the issue. i have tried recalibrating the z offset about 10 different times and still the same issue. has anyone had this problem and managed to correct it? i dont think it is a mechanical issue as i replaced the stepper motor with the one i used for the 2nd extruder. So it must either be with th slicer or marlin. however the G.code looks fine to me. and i havent made any changes to marlin sinse the original set up.
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sebastian waters
Sep 13, 2020
In 3D Printing
So after Makertech version of cura told me this print would take only 2 hours . . . finally after 6 hours I have completed a 5cm tall moai head dual colour print. So another positive I know it will carry out a print over 6 hours with out fail. Does it look like the print quality of the example they used . . . NO (Iwould love for them to send the step file they used) Did I make manual changes to the gcode the slicer put out . . . YES (that was very tedious) Did I have to watch this print for the whole 6 hours . . .YES Did I have to unblock the filaments during this print. . . .YES, I had to intervene 5 times during the first 2 hours. After that the filament change overs were fine. To get the print to actually work I had to do 2 main things. 1. Open up the internal diameter of all 5 metal couples that feed the filament to the hotend. Long story short I ended up opening the ID’s up to 3/32 inches (2.38mm) using a 3/32 in drill bit and a pillar drill. This has drastically stopped the amount of blockages I have been having due to inconsistent filament width and also the filament cooling larger than 1.75mm. 2. I manually changed part of the gcode that was causing large amounts of blobbing on the purge tower. This is what the original gcode looked like at the end of the purge during the colour swap. G1 F1500 X144.458 Y186.149 E41.02784 G0 F2400 X143.836 Y186.149 G1 F1500 X138.849 Y181.162 E41.26007 ;------- T0 End Gcode ------- T1 G92 E0 M105 M109 S200 G1 F4200 E-5 ;MESH:Moai_Body.stl G0 F2400 X165.677 Y104.074 Z0.18 G0 X168.058 Y104.487 This text in bold were the bits causing problems. At the end of the purge the hot end would pause in its place whilst it did a temperate check/change. After the temperature change it would then do a 5m retraction before moving to the print. G1 F1500 X144.458 Y186.149 E41.02784 G0 F2400 X143.836 Y186.149 G1 F1500 X138.849 Y181.162 E41.26007 G92 E0 G1 F4200 E-5 ;------- T0 End Gcode ------- T1 ;MESH:Moai_Body.stl G0 F2400 X165.677 Y104.074 Z0.18 G0 X168.058 Y104.487 I added a 5mm retraction to the end of the purge sequence and removed the temperature check. I did a few tests with some small dual print calibration pieces and you can leave the temperature check in provided the 5mm filament retraction is before it. This unfortunately I think it can only be changed by Makertech as it is the way the slicer is generating its instructions based on their pre-sets when they set the program up. The stringing between the purge block and the head isn’t a problem of the printer that was also do to an issue in the gcode that I noticed when doing my alterations but didn’t correct as at the time I thought it was meant to be like that. Oh how I wish I trusted my gut instinct and just corrected it. The print quality issues between the layers i believe is down to the speed at which it was printed. Instead of it being at 50mm/s i will drop it down to 35mm/s in the future. Tomorrow I have planned a second print using a different slicer just to see the results. From looking at the gcode it does already look more positive.
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