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Heated Bed
In Assembly
Chris D
Apr 19, 2019
@dar.flem i understand the irritation with the flex plate slipping could use painters/masking tape at each end. i've been looking into borosilicate glasses an option for when my build plate does start warping. with expansion/contraction due to heating and cooling its bound to happen to the metal eventually. the glass is 3mm or so. it would cure the warping issue. the cost of milling aluminum beds is likely to cost more than a glass replacement. note to MakerTech here. as for addressing your issue with leveling. with your metal build platform flipped over now and the bowing in the downward direction. you could try making some small wedge shaped shims. and place them in the manner shown in the picture below. placing these at center or possibly every 100mm or so. you could use them to help support the build platform as well as help with leveling. the picture is quick and dirty. but i think it gets the idea across. the longer the taper the more fine the adjustments can be by simply squeezing them together or pulling them apart. i understand this is addressing an issue that should be resolved by MakerTech. but as i mentioned above bowing is imminent. the long distance of 300mm+ between supports on the long side is too far for my liking. and i plan to use something eventually to address it and these shims would do just that. no sense keeping my printer out of commission while waiting for a replacement part if theres something i can do to get by till it gets here.
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Y-Axis layer shifting question
In Assembly
Chris D
Apr 19, 2019
reset the stepper trimpots to suggested positions before doing these adjustments. i apologize for lack of clarity. by tightening the wheels i meant using the eccentric nuts. in the picture below they are the ones with the blue arrow pointing to them. turning them will increase/decrease the contact the wheels have with the gantry. you can us a 10mm wrench i believe. you may need to slightly loosen the screws and nyloc nuts, these should be just snug when making this adjustment. turn these nuts(either way doesn't matter). they offset the centerline of the wheels creating contact with the gantry beam. when checking the wheels to ensure proper contact. try pinching the wheels on the sides and rocking them. as pushing the wheel toward the gantry beam and rolling it with a single finger may give a false positive for proper contact. turning any one of the wheels should cause all the wheels to turn once everything is adjusted properly. once adjusted properly tighten the screws/nylocs. they should be just a little tighter than snug. too tight may cause issues with the bearings of the wheels. the drive belt may be too tight. it should be tight enough to keep the belt from skipping but not so tight as to cause undue friction. loosen the tensioning roller at the end of the gantry. try sliding the carriage back and forth. be sure to continuously move it. you want to mimic the speed and change of directions the printer may do. stop if the belt skips. add some tension with the tensioner. repeat as necessary to stop the belt from skipping. when you load a model into Cura it may not land centered. be sure to right click your object in Cura and selected center object before slicing to print. if this doesn't address the issue. there may be something in the firmware to adjust the offset. but that is outside my realm of expertise.
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