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Chris D
Jun 03, 2019
In General Discussion
having some issues printing ABS 1. print bed takes forever to heat up. and actually doesn't hit target temp of 110c. mine maxed out at 107c. 95-110 is the suggested bed temp for ABS. my print was warped on the face that was attached to the print bed. it didn't lift the edges but the face has a slight radius 2. printer back to stopping during a print. With PLA i was able to ruin a 9+hour print. with no problems except running out of filament(obviously my fault). but with ABS its down to about 2 hours of printing then stops. thinking the print stops is due to something over heating from the bed being maxed out. going to try it at 95 but still expecting a stoppage being so close to the max for the bed and the length of print
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Chris D
May 19, 2019
In General Discussion
Anyone try printing with nylon yet. Reading up on it before I try it. But was wondering if anyone has tried it. Couple issues I found in my reading is the high temp needed to melt the nylon. suggests using an all metal hot end. As well as an enclosure to minimize warping. And something about a glue stick. Need to watch a video on that to make sure i’m doing it properly. Anyways any tips or things to look out for would be great if anyone has experience in printing nylons thanks in advance chris
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Chris D
Apr 30, 2019
In Dual Switching Hotend v1
Doing this or any mod may cause MakerTech original parts unusable. just thought i'd mention that. My original servo died. bought a replacement that seemed to have issues of its own. i was able to find a solution though. Power HD 20KG servo they cost anywhere from $15-30. probably depending if its a knockoff or not. the ones i purchased cost about $23 from ebay. they come with a red or blue labeling on the servo. They are not a direct replacement. modifications to both the mounting bracket and the servo itself were made. A needle file set from Harbor Freight can be had for about $5. I suggest the steel ones not the diamond ones as they do not work well on the plastic of the servo. though the diamond works well on the metal so having both sets are advantageous. first filing the metal bracket is necessary for this to work. you'll need to file the upper and lower spans of the rectangle opening. try to file them evenly as it will make the hole alignment for mounting easier. try to use the file across the entire length of the span. a larger file would be ideal. personally i used a 9in. file. if you have one great if not needle files work fine. once you've filed the top and bottom spans of the opening some check it with the corner of the servo. if it doesn't fit repeat filing and checking the opening with the servo. once it fits through the entire length of the opening, move on to the sides. use the same filing process on the sides. you will get close to the holes since the servo has to be angled into the opening. this is fine, as there is still plenty metal to be structurally sound. next the holes on the servo are wider than the ones on the bracket. here i opted to file the plastic on the servo bringing the holes closer to the body of the servo allowing the screws to fit. use one of the round needle files to accomplish this. once it all fits you can mount the servo. one thing you will notice from the pictures below of the servos i purchased(i purchased both). they have a female connector. as is the connector from the printer. so you will need some pin connectors. the link for them is below. i didn't link the people i bought my servos from as they were slow on the shipping side. other than that they were fine. anyway, the pin connectors can be cut to only the 3 pins needed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-14mm-1x40pin-2-54mm-female-connector-extender-Servo-Arduino-prototype-board/222464515422?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 a note. as i stated i bought both the blue and red labeled servos. i am currently using the red labeled one as it centered for the arm installation best. for me the blue one was off to a slight angle so when it actuated to one side it was a little loose and the other side it was very tight and the servo continuously tried actuating. felt this would eventually burn up the servo. it could most likely be fixed via adjusting the Angles in Marlin. but the red labeled one worked the best. though it too pushed one side continuously. i slightly bent the stop outward till the servo stopped trying to actuate in that direction. i haven't tried doing any multi-filament prints other than the calibration printing. it worked fine during that so it would stand to reason there are no issues. with that i will be printing some in the future. if any issues arise i will post here with any fixes i implemented. here are pictures of the servos i bought. hope this helps someone. have a nice day chris
Replacement Servo Working (with modifications) content media
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Chris D
Apr 19, 2019
In Assembly
i know i've mentioned in a few other posts my servo issues. but with having gotten a new servo and having a new issue felt it deserved its own post. so the problem i'm having is when going into the TOOLS/MORE on the printer. pressing the 2 and 3 actuates the servo. pressing 1 does not actuate the servo at all. since the servo does take the command to put it in the install position, position 3. it would stand to reason that it will accept a command to put it into position 1. my guess is, it is not receiving said command to put it into position 1. any help troubleshooting this would be great. when pressing 1 or 2 the z offset adjusting does happen just not the actuating of the servo when 1 is pressed
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Chris D
Apr 15, 2019
In General Discussion
Has anyone tried TPU printing yet. i know TPU prefers a direct feed setup. but was wondering if anyone has had a successful print using TPU.
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Chris D
Apr 12, 2019
In General Discussion
the object i was printing was an Apple Watch charging dock. The Chac Mool one from MyMiniFactory. I've tried printing it 4 separate times. each time the print just stops. Initially i thought it was getting stuck. But having just witnessed the stopping. i now know that is not the case. the printer freezes. it claims the hotend and bed are still at printing temp though they are cooling and soon cool to touch. i have tried shutting down and resuming print but the carriage locates incorrectly and lowers too far crashing into the print and dislodges it from the bed. seems to happen after the 3-4 hours of printing mark. anyone have any ideas. this is really becoming frustrating. i'm going to try another long print. i seem to remember it happening on another but not positive so i will try it to be sure its not the file.
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Chris D
Apr 06, 2019
In Assembly
I got the Dual Switching extruder. But I am at a loss as to how to finish its install and get it working. the guide does not show the switching arm installed and as far as i can tell there needs to be more to it than just the control arm. or maybe i'm not seeing something. if anyone has this process completed a picture please or some direction on how to finish the install successfully. it is the last step i need to finish as i can't print with it the way it is thank you in advance for any help. Chris
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Chris D

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