So my dual print has a major problem when switching colors. It seems like the "y" connector has too much of a bend and this causes problems if Im not watching it. Maybe I could make it real short like the pictures? Also maybe the extrusion tubes could have a loop in them to help with the bending? I would just need to figure out where the tubing came from.
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To see this working, head to your live site.
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We've just released an updated version of the dual splitter and also added instructions for removing the pauses between switches.
More info here:
I write just to say that I also tried to find the solution for dual print. For me it finally worked when I replaced the couplings with PC4-M5 bowden the brass version which seemed to have a bit longer thread. This allowed me to screw them into the splitter much tighter. I also widened each end of 1cm ptfe tubes (using a thin screwdriver) in the splitter so that the filament wouldn't get stuck.
I also reassembled the hotend to make sure that there is no gap between the nozzle and the ptfe tube - that's because I've noticed that when the filament retracted it somehow got much wider on the /retracted/end - that's probably the other reason why it got stuck. I thing there must have been a gap in which it could get wider, cool down, get stuck.
I also have a problem with that blob of filament when the nozzle exchanges the filament - no idea what to do.
@Michael G I have now started making good progress with getting the printer to do dual prints.
First fix - slightly open up ID of the 3 metal couplers in the splitter and also the 2 individual ones on the extruders.
opening the ID on the extruders and the 2 couplers on the top of the splitter will stop the filament from getting stuck as the OD of the red and blue filament isn’t the most consistent thing.
Opening the ID on the coupler at the bottom of the splitter will stop the pulled filament from getting stuck when pushed back through during the filament change. I think the ID of the PTFE is larger than the ID on the couplers so when the filament cools i think it cools slightly larger and this gets stuck.
This is the physical issues with the filament switching sorted. Well for me at least.
My main issue is now with the G code that the @Makertech version of Cura is creating during the filament change.
I’m getting serious blobbing on the purge tower which i assume is due to something in the slicer telling the printer to purge more filament. Or its from filament that has been compressed in the nozzle and just oozing out during the transition.
@Makertechit would be really useful for you to give some assistance on this. instead of leaving us to overcome all the problems of this printer. As this was a feature you advertised as a working extra and from what i can see no one has gotten any results from it.
An extra problem i have noticed is that at the end of the Dual print. If you end of the 2nd extruder the printer isnt reset and back to the first extruder. so when you go back to a single colour print from the first extruder you automatically get a jam. As the printer does reset.
I believe this needs to be corrected at the source of the Makertechs version of Cura as i think they have hidden and stopped access to the settings that would allow you to make these changes under the Axis printer profile.
so its a waste of money. GREAT.
I gave up on getting the dual extrusion to work. I'm open to suggestions but after fiddling with it I came to the conclusion that it wasn't going to work well at all.
The problems I ran into:
Couldn't figure out the correct retraction length when switching tools (extruders)
The extruder which was switched to would get jammed because the other filament was in the way.
The extruder which was switched to would get jammed because some lefter melted portion of the other filament was in the way.
The extruder which was switched to would get jammed because it didn't like going back through the Y.
Googling around for this type of dual extrusion yielded a lot of posts with frustrated people. I believe that this is why mixing hotends or dual hotends, like the one Makertech makes, are now the choice for dual extrusion.
I've been contemplating changing the hotend for this printer. If possible I might go to a mixing hotend.