HI, just recived my linear rails kit. Adeel is it possible to upload and update the .STL-s for the linear rails supports that are made from PETG ? https://github.com/Makertech3D/AXIS/tree/master/Linear%20Rail%20Upgrade from there at least the LRU_X-Front.STL is a bit outdated.

Update, swap my nozzle to 0.8 did couple of test runs, found cura settings- top/bottom pattern where u can swap between lines/zigzag/cocentric. And i guess i had a bit of a overextrusion problem that squeezed fila to the oncoming path, making it hard to see the zig zag motion. case closed.

its not quite clear from the video but i can say that it does not move over to the side at the end of the line, but just moves back on the same bath/line whitout extruding. And then moves to the side and starts extruding again. ill try to swap the nozzles and make picture.

Could u point out which bearing was too tight and what was the symptoms of that? I cannot get rid of the X wobble... if i adjust the exentric guides so there is no wobble in the plate then at the extremums it wont run smootly and starts to "jitter"... when i adjust the exentrics during the printing i get smooth sailin but i can see how the plate wobbles at extremums and i cannot find the sweetspot where they both are minimum :(

Turn the flexplate upside town with the sticker pointing townwards and use pva gluestick... I do that and i have the bedheat @25c°... After 3-4 prints i remove the old glue with water and apply new :)

Nice... Thanks for that updaye... it makes dualprinting worthy again :). Just one tiny problem after replacing the "M" codes in gcode the printer wants to start the print before nozzle temp is reached, but i guess its not that hard to pre heat the nozzle or pause the print...yingyang print ia printed with dualextruder v1 only code is altered... No gloggs/ absolute no problems duri g print (ca 45min) :)

@Johannes L wow... thats alot of info to digest, too bad i just aint got so much time to play with it... but i surely will... thanks for the replay:)

@Johannes L got it , thanks... is there a way to manually insert values for the ULB 100point mesh?... i got some bad areas that have so hihg peaks that it wont even print the first layer there.

@Johannes L thru pronterface i can see m206 has a value of 1.15 but when i go to axis > configuration > Probe Z Offset - it shows 0.000 :S

@Michael G First it probed only 57 points after setting the non probe are to 15mm it got to 91 points. As u move the Y axis to max u can see that the probe is unable to probe like 25-30 mm from the front side of the X axis. is there a way to know if my UBL actually is working? In my slier i have removed the M420 command. I have G28 > G29 L1 > G29 J... before the print i can see printer probing 3 spots. But during print, at least for me it seems that the Z axis is moving less

Yet again i seek knowledge from Axis and Marlin wisemen. I managed to enable babystepping and UBL, even managed to get the pobe count from 57/100 to 91/100. But i got stuck in the last point 11 - Print the validation mesh -G26 L0.2 B60 H200 S0.3 ; Prints mesh with a layer height of 0.2mm, bed heated to 60, hotend to 200, and is using a 0.3mm nozzle. to be more precise with the combination of the above and Z axis offset. As i print the validation mesh i can see that its not lowering the nozzle as low as Z axis offset is. when i type "M501" in pronterface should i see from that data also Z axis offset? First i tried to do the Z offset from the Axis itself and thought that was a problem, but then i also did it like Makerteh advises from pronterface but the outcome is still the same.

thanks, right now i downloaded the marlin file agian and started with configuration again. This time complying after every step. So far i got the baby stepping complyd. Will continue tomorrow. Why im doing this- i found that my bed is off more then 1mm with the fwd side of the bed being up and the gantry side being down :S

After enabeling baby stepping and ubl i cannot comply the marlin file. it says Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560... did i messed up the file ?

For me the filament got stuck on the ends/starts of the metal connectors PC4-M5 Coupling (x3). The holes are smaller then the flexitube holes. So i drilled the holes of the metal connectors over with 2.38mm drill. Well first i used smal file and it was a massive improvment.

Thanks @Johannes L got it working :)

@Johannes L pretty sure it used more :D...now thats done i can move on to another adventures with the axis :D

Finaly did it. I was so close throwing in a dowel on this one. I think it took me like literally 30 tries. Finaly what did it was standart cura with most of @sebastian waters settings. As u can see my print was 13h, did it in 2 parts (point of pause is seen on print as well). 0 nozzle gloggs and for some reason had to manually push the nr 2 color filamet in for first color swap. (Somethig to do with cura settings, had to do it every try, but only for the first swap) So in my experience "Prime tower size" is in correlation with "Prime Tower minimum Volume". For example for me setting the minimum volume to 18 was just not clearing the color enough and i tried setting it 30 as my tower size was 20. But that made it even worse, meaning when it was time to change the color it was really unstable with one time correct amount (for example 15) of circles in prime tower and for the other it was doing only 1-2 circles and back to print. So my final go it was 30 for both. Also its highly reccomened to set the "Nozzle standby temp" equal to print temp. Otherwise it means it will wait quite long until the temp lowers to that standby temp, and it does that on your print. For some reason not ooozing nearly as much as with Makertech cura. I also added 1 line of code "G1" to one extruder end setting. Just for it to move to certain spot on the table after it was finished extruding its layer. For coinsidence it moved right over my purge tower and i had "Wipe inactive nozzle on prime tower" also ticked. So i quess thats why my prime tower has miljon of tots on it. Also for cause of the massive lenght of the "Nozzle retraction distance" if u have 1kg spool on the printer it will move ur filament off the spool and if u dont correct it in every 0.5 to 1 hour it will ruin ur print :) For conclusion i really think that Makertech slice for dual extrusion is sooo much better if only they would remove that 5sec temp check setting that causes the plob on the prime tower. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE @Makertech remove it on the next cura version. so as u can see the amount of filament and time wasted is ridicoulus but nobody ever said it would be easy, i just did not think it would be this hard 🎤

Did u try to add these settings to Makertech Cura and print whit these settings?

I did pretty much the same. Only tool i had was i file, so i filed them to a point where the sang was minimum and i cannot measure the holes diameter :D. But yeah it was obvious that it would snag inside the metal bouden not the tube. :)

Thanks alot, i will try these settings asap. What about the retraction speed, You have set it to 50mm/s thats twice as high as deffault setting. Did u use PLA that came with the Axis, cause it feels really brittle and seems to brake alot and im just wondering jankin it back at that speed will it brake or not :)?